Right at the train station, the town's first hotel, El Albergue, is absolutely lovely, with spacious rooms with dark-wood accents, historic black-and-white photos of the region, and a tranquil garden area. Owned by exuberant longtime American resident and artist Wendy Weeks, the lodging has homey touches, huge breakfasts, and a cozy sitting room. If you're lucky, you'll arrive just when the chocolate-chip cookies emerge from the oven and the whole place smells like Grandma's kitchen. Reserve in advance: the place is popular with groups about to embark on, or just returning from, the nearby Inca Trail. Children are welcome to use the family playground. It also features one of the best, if not the best, restaurants in town, and it's definitely the best option for a special dinner.