Pisac's famous three-times-weekly market draws the shop-'til-you-drop crowd, local and tourist alike. Fruits, vegetables, and grains happily share the stage with ceramics, jewelry, and woolens on the central plaza and spill over into the side streets. Sellers set up shop about 8 AM on market days (and a few set up on nonmarket days as well), and start packing up at about 3 PM. Those in the know insist that vendors, anxious to minimize the load they cart back home, offer their best bargains around closing time. By 5 PM even the hangers-on have filtered away from the plaza. Though the Tuesday and Thursday markets will not disappoint, go on Sunday if your schedule permits; you'll have a chance to take in the 11 AM Quechua mass at the Iglesia San Pedro Apóstolo and watch the elaborate costumed procession led by the mayor who carries his varayoc, a ceremonial staff, out of the church afterward. Sunday afternoon sees bands and beer tents -- this is small-town Peru at its best.
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