The little square in San Blas has a simple adobe church with one of the jewels of colonial art in the Americas -- the pulpit of San Blas, an intricately carved 17th-century cedar pulpit, arguably Latin America's most ornate. Tradition holds that the work was hewn from a single tree trunk, but experts these days believe it was assembled from 1,200 individually carved pieces. Figures of Martin Luther, John Calvin, and Henry VII -- all opponents of Catholicism -- as well as those representing the seven deadly sins are condemned for eternity to hold up the pulpit's base. The work is dominated by the triumphant figure of Christ. At his feet rests a human skull, not carved, but the real thing. It is thought to belong to Juan Tomás Tuyrutupac, the creator of the pulpit.
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