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Once the crossroads and highway for people and contraband along the mighty Magdalena River and now a colonial relic languishing in the backwaters of the Colombian Caribbean, Mompox (Mompós) is firmly part of the Garciamarquian heartland, with whitewashed streets and ornate churches that echo with tales of South America's liberator Simó Bolívar and the paces of the devout during the city's
austere Semana Santa celebrations. Step back in time in a charming destination self-contained on an island, where whole families slumber in rocking chairs in the evening breeze.
When it was founded in 1533 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia, Cartagena was the only port on the South American mainland. Gold and silver...