Some 20% of Chile's one million Mapuche live on reducciones, or reservations. One of the most welcoming communities is on Isla Huapi, a leafy island in the middle of deep-blue Lago Ranco. It's out of the way—about 80 km (48 miles) southeast of Valdivia—but worth the trip for those interested in Mapuche culture. A boat departs from Futrono, on the northern shore of the lake, at 7 am Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, returning at 5 pm. The pastoral quiet of Isla
Huapi is broken once a year in January or February with the convening of the island council, in conjunction with the Lepún harvest festival. You are welcome during the festival, but be courteous and unobtrusive with your camera.