During your stay at La Candela, you can wander along the same rocky Pacific shore that Neruda once explored. The owner, Chilean folk singer Rosario "Charo" Cofré, was a good friend of the Nerudas—note the photos in the lobby. If there's a crowd, she'll often sing a few songs. Many of the large guest rooms have fireplaces, about half overlook the sea through the pines, and, as Charo puts it, "the ocean is our pool." The restaurant ($$$) serves a vast selection of clams,
sea bass, shrimp, and other seafood in numerous sauces. Country-style rooms have pale-wood furnishings and beds piled high with comforters.