The Central Coast Feature

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Neruda's Inspiration

First of all, let's clear up one thing: Isla Negra may mean "Black Island," but this little stretch of rugged coastline is not black, and it is not an island. This irony must have appealed to Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda, who made his home here for more than three decades.

Of his three houses, Pablo Neruda was clearly most attached to Isla Negra. "Ancient night and the unruly salt beat at the walls of my house," he wrote in one of his many poems about his home in Isla Negra. It's easy to see how this house, perched high above the waves crashing on the purplish rocks, could inspire such reverie.

Neruda bought this house in 1939. Like La Sebastiana, his house in Valparaíso, it had been started by someone else and then abandoned. Starting with the cylindrical stone tower, which is topped by a whimsical weather vane shaped like a fish, he added touches that could only be described as poetic. There are odd angles, narrow hallways, and various nooks and crannies, all for their own sake.

What is most amazing about Isla Negra, however, is what he chose to place inside. There's a tusk from a narwhal in one room, and figureheads from the fronts of sailing ships hanging overhead in another. There are huge collections ranging from seashells to bottles to butterflies. And yet it is also just a house, with a simple room designed so he could gaze down at the sea when he needed inspiration.

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