You don't need a car if you're not going to venture outside the city limits, as most of the downtown sights are within walking distance of each other. To get to other neighborhoods, taxis are inexpensive and the subway system is safe and efficient. After you dodge a line of cars speeding through a red light or see the traffic snarls during rush hour, you may be glad you don't have to drive in the city.
A car is the best way to see the surrounding countryside, however. Although the highways around Santiago are generally well maintained, weather conditions can make them dangerous. Between May and August, rain can cause roads in low-lying areas to flood. Avoid driving if it has been raining for several hours. If you're headed north or south, you'll probably use the Pan-American Highway, also called Ruta 5. To reach Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, or the northernmost beach resorts on the Central Coast, take Highway 68; for the southern beaches, take Ruta 78.
It can take up to two hours to reach the region's three major ski resorts, which lie 48-56 km (30-35 mi) from Santiago. The road is narrow, winding, and full of Chileans racing to get to the top. If you decide to drive, make sure you have either a four-wheel-drive vehicle or snow chains, which you can rent along the way. The chains are installed for about 8,000 pesos. Don't think you need them? There's a police checkpoint just before the road starts to climb into the Andes, and if the weather is rough they'll make you turn back. To reach Valle Nevado, Farellones, and La Parva, take Avenida Kennedy or Avenida Las Condes east. Signs direct you once you get into the mountains. Portillo is three hours north of Santiago. Call the hotel there ahead of time to find out about road conditions.
To reach Cajón del Maipo, head south on Avenida José Alessandri until you reach the Rotonda Departamental, a large traffic circle. There you take Camino Las Vizcachas, following it south into the valley.
Renting a car is convenient in Santiago, as most companies have offices at the airport and downtown. The international agencies generally rent compact cars with unlimited mileage and insurance coverage for about 40,000 pesos a day. They can provide ski-equipped vehicles for climbs to the Andes. Reputable local agencies include Alameda, Chilean, and Rosselot, whose rates can be as low as 20,000 pesos a day.
Alameda (Diego de Velásquez 2087, Providencia. 2/415-2071). Alamo (Airport. 2/690-1370. Av. Francisco Bilbao 2846, Providencia. 2/225-3061). Avis (Airport. 2/690-1382. Av. San Pablo 9900, Pudahuel. 2/601-9747. Av. Santa María 1742, Providencia. 2/274-7621). Budget (Airport. 2/690-1386. Av. Francisco Bilbao 1439, Providencia. 2/690-1489). Chilean (Bellavista 0183, Bellavista. 2/737-9650). Hertz (Airport. 2/690-1029. Av. Andrés Bello 1469, Providencia. 2/496-1000). Rosselot (Airport. 2/343-9058. Av. Francisco Bilbao 2032, Providencia. 2/343-9058).
