Pomaire Side Trip

Pomaire Side Trip

You can easily spend a morning or afternoon wandering around the quaint village of Pomaire, a former settlement of indigenous people comprising nothing more than a few streets of single-story adobe dwellings. On weekends Pomaire teems with people who come to wander around, shop, and lunch in one of the picadas specializing in empanadas and other typical Chilean foods.

Pomaire is famous for its brown greda, or earthenware pottery, which you'll likely come across in one form or another throughout Chile. Order pastel de choclo and it will nearly always be served in a round, simple clay dish -- they're heavy and retain the heat, so the food is brought to the table piping hot.

The village bulges with bowls, pots, and plates of every shape and size, not to mention other objects such as piggy banks, plant pots, vases, and figurines. You can purchase these items at shops and open-air markets around town. An average bowl will set you back no more than 200 to 300 pesos; an oven dish might cost between 2,000 and 3,000 pesos. The quality varies, so it's worth taking a look around before you buy. The workmanship at Nativa (Roberto Bravo 78. 2/832-5693) is among the best you'll find. Vases and other items are extremely delicate.

You can watch craftspeople at work at Pumara (Roberto Bravo 57. 2/832-5656). The shop echoes with the pretty wind chimes made from pieces of pottery.

Pomaire, which lies 70 km (43 mi) west of Santiago, is easy to find. It's clearly signposted to your right off the Autopista del Sol. You can also take any of the buses that depart frequently from Terminal San Borja in downtown Santiago.

Where to Eat

Los Naranjos. An eclectic collection of gramophones could be reason enough to come and lunch here, but more than anything diners come back time and again for the excellent Chilean food. If you're hungry try the pernil de chancho (leg of pork) -- it's succulent and fit for an army. This is also a good place to try one of the national staples such as pastel de choclo -- a delicious concoction of minced beef, chicken, olives, and boiled egg, topped with a creamy layer of mashed corn. Sunday there's often a traditional Chilean dance show to entertain you while you eat. Roberto Bravo 44. 2/831-1791. No credit cards

La Greda. Named for the earthenware pottery that made this village famous, La Greda is a great place for grilled meats. Try the filete la grada, a steak covered with a sauce of tomatoes, onions, and mushrooms and topped with cheese. The expansive outdoor dining room has vines winding around the thick wood rafters. If the weather is cool, the staff will light a fire in the woodstove to keep things toasty. Manuel Rodriguez 251, at Roberto Bravo. 2/831-1166. AE, DC, MC, V