Cajón del Maipo Side Trip

Cajón del Maipo Side Trip

The Cajón del Maipo, a stunning river valley southeast of Santiago, is so expansive that you can easily spend several days exploring the area. A narrow road runs parallel to the Río Maipo, the river that supplies Santiago with most of its drinking water, as it snakes up into the Andes. As you ascend, you'll see massive mountains of sedimentary rock, heaved up and thrown sideways millions of years ago when the Andes were formed. On a sunny day, the colors here are subtle but glowing, ranging from oranges and reds to ochers, buffs, beiges, browns, and even elusive greens. Locals in roadside stands sell homemade chicha (cider) and miel (honey). At the far end of the valley, you'll find an austere landscape where hot springs spill from the earth and the mountains display vibrant shades of blue and violet.

Whatever you do, don't hurry through the Cajón del Maipo. Any of the villages you pass is worth a visit. As the valley is a popular weekend getaway for Santiaguinos, most villages have small cafés providing basic meals and simple lodgings. There are also plenty of mercados where you can pick up supplies for a picnic. The canyon's main town, San José de Maipo, is a great place to get acquainted with small-town life in the Andes. Note that the going gets tougher shortly after you pass El Volcán, as the road is no longer paved. Make sure you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle if you want to venture farther, especially if there's rain in the forecast.

San José de Maipo

In the heart of the Cajón del Maipo is the old colonial town of San José de Maipo, founded in the late 18th century when silver was discovered nearby. Rows of quaint, single-story adobe dwellings with thatched roofs line the streets. In the center of town is a large shady plaza where you'll find the church with a mismatched steeple.

Although most of the best views are deeper in the canyon, you'll probably want to stop in San José de Maipo. The only automatic teller machine is here on the main square, as is the visitor center.

San Alfonso

About 65 km (40 mi) south of Santiago is San Alfonso, a small but charming village with fantastic houses that look as though they've been stolen from a Chilean folktale. Look for the little details, such as a weather vane depicting two children running away with an enormous bunch of grapes.

Just past San Alfonso is the abandoned mining town of El Volcán,where you can visit the old abandoned copper-mine shafts and peer into the decaying, cramped miners' quarters. The visitor center in San José de Maipo has information about tours.

Lo Valdés

Past El Volcán, the gravel road leads higher into the jagged mountains. Green slopes give way to sheer mountain cliffs of gray and purple. Here you'll be able to spot layer upon layer of sedimentary rock, packed with fossils from the time when this whole area was under the ocean. About 12 km (7 mi) beyond El Volcán you'll pass the tiny town of Baños Morales, where Santiaguinos go to soak their tired muscles in the hot springs. Beyond Baños Morales, take the right fork to reach Lo Valdés, a charming village that makes an excellent place to stop for the night.

In Baños Morales you'll find the entrance to the Monumento Natural El Morado,named after the impressive purple peak. If it's a clear day you'll be privy to some stunning views of the snowcapped Andean peaks from the park. An exhilarating 8-km (5-mi), three-hour hike passes a glacier. There's an admission charge of 1,500 pesos.

About 11 km (7 mi) past Lo Valdés, along a poorly maintained road through an impressive moonscape of mauves, grays, and steely blues, are the isolated and picturesque Baños de Colina. These huge natural bowls, scooped out of the mountain edge, overflow with water from the hot springs. Here you can slip into a bathing suit (note, however, that there are no changing rooms) and choose the pool that has the temperature most to your liking. Let your body float gently in the mineral-rich waters and enjoy the view down the valley as your fellow soakers trade medical advice, offer salt and lemons to suck on, and speculate about the medicinal properties of the waters. Admission is 2,000 pesos.