Ski Resorts

Ski Resorts

No wonder skiing aficionados from around the world head to Chile: the snowcapped mountains to the east of Santiago have the largest number of runs not just in Chile or South America, but in the entire Southern Hemisphere. The other attraction is that the season here lasts from June to September, so savvy skiers can take to the slopes when everyone else is hitting the beach.

There are three distinct ski areas within easy reach of Santiago -- Farellones, La Parva, and Valle Nevado -- with a total of 43 lifts that can carry you to the top of 1,260 acres of groomed runs. To reach these areas, follow Avenida Las Condes eastward until you leave Santiago. Here, you begin an arduous journey up the Andes, making 40 consecutive hairpin turns. The road forks when you reach the top, with one road taking the relatively easy 16-km (10-mi) route east to Valle Nevado, and the other following a more difficult road north to Farellones and La Parva.

About 160 km (100 mi) north of Santiago and close to the Argentine border is Portillo, the oldest ski area in South America. It's a three-hour drive from the city, so a day trip would be exhausting. The only accommodation is Hotel Portillo, which requires a minimum one-week stay. To reach Portillo from Santiago, head north on the Pan-American Highway, following signs to the town of Los Andes. From there take the International Highway (Ruta 60) east until you reach the resort.

Farellones & El Colorado

The closest ski area to Santiago is Farellones, at the foot of Cerro Colorado. This area, consisting of a couple of ski runs for beginners, is used mainly by locals out for a day trip. Facilities are scanty -- just a couple of unremarkable restaurants and a few drink stands. Farther up the road is El Colorado, which has 568 acres of groomed runs -- the most in Chile. There are 18 runs here: seven beginner, four intermediate, three advanced, and four expert. You'll find a few restaurants and pubs in the village. Ski season here runs mid-June to mid-October.

2/217-9101. www.elcolorado.cl. 22,000 pesos. Mid-June-mid-Oct.

Where to Stay & Eat

La Cornisa. This year-round hotel on the road to Farellones is great if you want to get to the slopes early, as there's free shuttle service to and from the nearby ski areas. The quaint old inn, run by the same family for years, has 10 rooms with wood floors and heaters to keep out the chill. The best are the two corner rooms, which are a bit larger and have wide windows with excellent views. The rate includes breakfast and dinner in the small restaurant, warmed by a fireplace and looking directly down the mountain to Santiago. Av. Los Cóndores 636, Farellones. 2/220-7581. 2/220-7581. www.lacornisa.cl. 10 rooms. In-hotel: restaurant, laundry service. AE, DC, MC, V. 2 meals

La Parva

About 3 km (2 mi) up the road from Farellones, La Parva is a colorful conglomeration of private homes set along a handful of mountain roads. At the resort itself there are 14 ski runs, most for intermediate skiers. La Parva is positioned perfectly to give you a stunning view of Santiago, especially at night. The season here tends to be a little longer than at the neighboring resorts. The slopes usually open in May, meaning the season can sometimes last six months.

02/431-0420. www.laparva.cl. 22,000 pesos. May-Oct.

Where to Stay

Condominio Nuevo Parva. The best place to stay in La Parva is this complex of spacious, modern apartments that sleep between six and eight people. Linens are provided, but maid service is extra. You can rent only by the week, so plan for a lot of skiing. Valle Nevado and the other ski areas are a short drive away. Nueva La Parva 77. 2/212-1363. www.laparva.cl. 32 apartments. In-room: kitchen. In-hotel: pool. AE, MC, V. Closed Oct.-May

Valle Nevado

Valle Nevado, just 13 km (8 mi) beyond La Parva, is Chile's largest ski region -- a luxury resort area with 11 ski lifts that take you up to 27 runs on more than 300 acres of groomed trails. More lifts are being built to provide skiing fanatics with even more options. There are a few slopes for beginners, but Valle Nevado is intended for skiers who like a challenge. Three of the extremely difficult runs from the top of Cerro Tres Puntas are labeled "Shake," "Rattle," and "Roll." If that doesn't intimidate you then you might be ready for some heliskiing. A Bell 407 helicopter whisks you to otherwise inaccessible peaks where you can ride a vertical drop of up to 2,500 meters (8,200 feet).

A ski school at Valle Nevado gives pointers to everyone from beginners to experts. As most of the visitors here are European, the majority of the 50 instructors are from Europe. Equipment rental runs about 25,000 pesos a day.

2/477-7700. www.vallenevado.cl. 22,500 pesos. Mid-June-Oct.

Where to Stay

Three hotels dominate Valle Nevado; staying at one gives you access to the facilities at the other two. The larger two -- Puerta del Sol and Valle Nevado -- are part of the same complex. The three hotels share restaurants, which serve almost every type of cuisine. Rates include lift tickets, ski equipment, and all meals. Peak season is July and August; you can often get the same room for half the price if you stay in June or September.

Puerta del Sol. The largest of the Valle Nevado hotels, Puerta del Sol can be identified by its signature sloped roof. Rooms here are larger than those at Tres Puntas, but still rather small. One good option are the "altillo rooms," which have a loft bed that gives you more space. North-facing rooms cost more but have unobstructed views of the slopes. Since all three hotels share facilities, Puerta del Sol is your best value. Valle Nevado. 2/206-0027; 800/669-0554 toll-free in U.S. 2/208-0697. www.vallenevado.com. 124 rooms. In-room: safe, Internet. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, gym, laundry service, minibar. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Oct.-June 14. 2 meals

Tres Puntas. It bills itself as a hotel for young people, and Tres Puntas may indeed remind you of a college dormitory. The closet-size rooms come with either bunk beds or two single beds and maybe a night table. And the tiny wooden balconies are just big enough for two people. In short, these rooms are for people who intend to be on the slopes all day. Inside is a pub and an American-style restaurant complete with a jukebox. Valle Nevado. 2/206-0027; 800/669-0554 toll-free in U.S. 2/208-0697. www.vallenevado.com. 89 rooms. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, laundry service. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Oct.-June 14. 2 meals

Valle Nevado. Valle Nevado's most extravagantly priced lodge provides ski-in ski-out convenience. Rooms here are larger than at the other two hotels, and all have balconies. Off season, it's possible to trek by horse or on foot from here to the foot of El Plomo, which is more than 5,000 meters (16,400 feet) high. Valle Nevado. 2/206-0027; 800/669-0554 toll-free in U.S. 2/208-0697. www.vallenevado.com. 53 rooms. In-room: safe, Internet. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bar, pool, gym, bicycles, laundry service, minibar. AE, DC, MC, V. 2 meals

Portillo

This ski area north of Santiago is renowned for its slopes, where numerous world speed records have been recorded. It also has the best views of any of the area's ski resorts. The slopes here were discovered by engineers building the now-defunct railroad that linked Chile to Argentina. After the railroad was inaugurated in 1910, skiing aficionados headed here despite the fact that there were no facilities available. Hotel Portillo, the only accommodation in the area, opened its doors in 1949, making Portillo the country's first ski resort, and went on to host the World Ski Championships in 1966.

The facilities at the hotel are reserved for hotel guests, but you can dine in the auto-servicio (cafeteria-style) restaurant if you're here for the day.

2/263-0606. www.skiportillo.cl. 22,000 pesos. Mid-June-mid-Oct.

Where to Stay

Hotel Portillo. Staying here feels a bit like going off to camp: every Saturday a new group settles in for a week's worth of outdoor activities. Besides skiing there's skating on the Laguna del Inca and even swimming in the heated outdoor pool. The hotel has almost as many employees as guests, which means service is excellent and the mood relaxed. Big windows in the guest rooms showcase mountain views or the more prized view of the lake. Family-style apartments come with bunk beds for children. Los Andes. 2/361-7000; 2/263-0606; 800/829-5325 toll-free in U.S. 2/361-7080. www.skiportillo.com. 150 rooms, 5 suites, 15 apartments. In-room: safe, Internet. In-hotel: 4 restaurants, bar, pool, gym, laundry service. AE, DC, MC, V. All-inclusive