Right behind the main plaza, Terrantai is a real gem combining the historical and modern: the historical part is a 200-year-old colonial house with high cane ceilings supported by entire tree trunks, and the modern part (constructed in 1996) opens out into a maze of river-stone walls with secret fountains and gardens. The most picturesque parts of the hotel look onto the steeple of the church, and are bathed with evening sunlight and alive with the sound of cooing pigeons, chattering birds, and the distant peruvian flute playing from the plaza. This is the original boutique hotel in San Pedro and is owned by a local family who opted for indigenous designs, a tasteful small swimming pool to respect the scarcity of water, and a laid-back atmosphere. Rooms are basic, but there are little touches that make Terrantai a notch above some of the rest: a variety of teas offered all day, useful toiletries, a complimentary picnic bag, and a welcome pisco sour. The candlelit restaurant, perfect for a romantic dinner, serves international fare, although the breakfast has a touch of local with quinoa crackers, yerba mate, and coca leaf tea.