Isla Lemuy

Though easily reached by a 15-minute ferry ride from Chonchi, Isla Lemuy feels miles away from anything. It's the third largest of Chiloé's islands, just slightly smaller than Isla Quinchao to the north. Jesuit churches dominate three of its villages—Ichuac, Aldachildo, and Detif—none of which have more than a handful of houses. The recently restored tower of Ichuac's church stands out against the rest of the building, which has fallen into disrepair. The Aldachildo chapel is locked most of the year, though the folks in the local telephone office can help track down someone to open it up for you. Detif's church, open only for Sunday morning mass, is noteworthy for its "votive boats," small wooden ship models hung in thanksgiving for a safe journey. From this church there's a stunning view of Michinmahuida Volcano on the mainland.

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