If you're unable to venture up to Bahia on your trip, you can at least savor some of its flavors at this busy, tangerine-painted restaurant. Tempero de Bahia specializes in northeastern fare like moquecas (a rich seafood stew made with coconut milk and palm oil), but their delicious versions are unusual for mixing prawns with local river fish. Spicy panfried sole and salmon are lighter options. The flavors aren't quite as subtle at the all-out seafood (and riverfood)
buffets they hold several times a week, but the offerings are tasty and cheap enough to pull in crowds.