The South Restaurants

Churrasco (slow-grilled and -roasted meat), one of the most famous foods of Brazil, originated in Rio Grande do Sul. But the cuisine is eclectic here in cowboy country, and rice and beans sit on southern tables beside Italian and German dishes, thanks to the South's many European immigrants. Look for barreado, a dish from coastal Paraná made by stewing beef, bacon, potatoes, and spices for hours in a clay pot made airtight with moistened manioc flour. Café colonial is the elaborate 5 pm tea—with breads, pies, and German kuchen—popular among the Germans in the South.

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  • 1. Al Dente Ristorante

    $$$ | Auxiliadora

    You may be surprised at the quality and authenticity of the Northern Italian cuisine at this small restaurant in Porto Alegre. Among many excellent choices are garganelli (a variety of pasta from Emilia-Romagna) with salmon in wine sauce and fettuccine nere (fettuccine with a black tinge of squid ink) with caviar sauce. A house novelty is the Italian-gaúcho risotto, made with sun-dried meat, tomatoes, and squash. The decor is sober, with candlelit tables and cream drapes covering most of the walls.

    Rua Mata Bacelar 210, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90540-150, Brazil
    051-3343–1841

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch weekends, Credit cards accepted
  • 2. Chef Fedoca

    $$$$ | Lagoa da Conceição

    On the second floor of the Marina Ponta da Areia complex, this restaurant has a grand view of the Lagoa da Conceição, with surrounding green hills as the backdrop. The fare, carefully created by chef Fedoca, a diver himself, includes a wide variety of seafood and pasta options. Fedoca's moqueca (a fish, shrimp, octopus, and mussel stew), inspired by the famed Bahian dish, is the house specialty, as are the lobster dishes.

    Rua Sen. Ivo D'Aquino Neto 133, Florianópolis, Santa Catarina, 88062-050, Brazil
    048-3232–0759

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 3. Gambrinus

    $$$ | Centro

    Porto Alegre's best-known restaurant has been in business at the same spot, steps from city hall at the Mercado Público, since 1889. The walls are covered with Portuguese tiles, antiques, and period photographs exalting those early days. The restaurant is a popular happy-hour spot for politicians and businesspeople. The menu varies daily from beef to fish dishes. One of the highlights is the large Brazilian grey mullet stuffed with shrimp (served Friday and Saturday).

    Rua Borges de Medeiros 85, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90020-020, Brazil
    051-3226–6914

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sat. Closed Sun., Credit cards accepted
  • 4. Ostradamus

    $$$$

    The village of Riberão da Ilha, a mere 21 km (13 miles) away from Florianópolis, is worth an afternoon jaunt to try the local specialty: oysters. There's no better place for oysters than Ostradamus, right on the beach overlooking the oyster beds. Seafood doesn’t get more local and fresh than this. Ask for a table out on the pier, or opt for air-conditioning inside, where the decor and staff are decked out in a nautical theme. Oysters are served numerous ways, from raw to au gratin. In winter, when the bivalves are plumper, you can opt for the degustação (tasting)—a sequence of oysters prepared 16 different ways.

    Rodovia Baldicero Filomeno 7640, Florianópolis, Santa Catarina, 88064-002, Brazil
    48-3337–5711

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
  • 5. Valle Rústico

    $$$$ | Vale dos Vinhedos

    No restaurant is ever perfect, but Valle Rústico comes pretty close. The chef-owner Rodrigo Bellora—a Slow Food disciple—plucks organic ingredients from the garden and sources local produce to assemble simple but stunning dishes. The Italian-style, four-course set-menu (with three options per course) is a great value (R$78) and can be paired with local wines for an extra R$50. Unpretentious is the watchword here, from the dirt-road entrance to the dining room down in the basement of an old colonial house, where whitewashed walls and exposed wood beams lend a rustic, farmstead touch.

    Linha Marcilio Dias s/n, 15 da Graciema, Bento Gonçalves, Rio Grande do Sul, 95720-000, Brazil
    054-3459–1162

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sun.
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