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Situated 70 km (43 mi) inland from the Atlantic Ocean with an average elevation of around 800 meters (2,625 feet), São Paulo has a surprisingly flat and featureless metropolitan area, apart from a few elevated areas, including those around Avenida Paulista and Centro. A major thoroughfare called the "Marginal"—two one-way expressways on either side of a smelly, Pinheiros river—divides the city from both north to south and east to west, with most business and tourist activity occurring in the southeastern quadrant. No matter where you are, though, it's difficult to gain a visual perspective of your relative location, thanks to the legions of buildings in every direction. A good map is a necessity.
This downtown area has the city's most interesting historic architecture and some of its most famous sights; however, many parts are also quite daunting and dirty, so be prepared. Area highlights include the freshly revamped (2006) Praça da Sé, considered the vortex for the São Paulo municipal district. Parque da Luz is just to the north and next to a number of important buildings, including the Estação da Luz, the former headquarters of São Paulo Railway that now houses the Museum of the Portuguese Language.
Southeast of Centro, Liberdade (meaning "freedom" or "liberty" in Portuguese) is the center of São Paulo's vibrant Japanese, Korean, and Chinese communities, and features a range of Asian-style streetscapes and shopfronts. It's a popular area with travelers, thanks to the many culturally motivated markets and restaurants.
The imposing Avenida Paulista is home to some of the city's best hotels, biggest financial companies, and most important businesses. Many of São Paulo's cultural institutions center around this impressive, eight-lane-wide thoroughfare. Just 2.8-km (1.7-mi) long, the avenue begins west of Centro and spans several of the city's chicest neighborhoods as it shoots southeast toward the Atlantic.
Officially called Bela Vista, this is São Paulo's Little Italy. Here are plenty of restaurants, theaters, and nightlife hot spots. Southwest of Centro and right next to Avenida Paulista, Bixiga is an old, working-class neighborhood—the kind of place where everybody knows everybody else's business.
On the southern side of Avenida Paulista sits Jardins, a trendy neighborhood that's ideal for shopping and eating out. The gently sloping, tree-filled area is one of the few parts of São Paulo that's suitable for walking around; it's also one of the safest neighborhoods in the city.
A view of the past
Although modern-day São Paulo is a tough place to navigate thanks to the jungle of tall buildings, this certainly wasn't always the case. During the city's first few hundred years, before the the current crop of skyscrapers appeared, there were impressive views from Avenida Paulista, which runs along a natural ridge line, the highest part of the hilly Vila Madelena area.
Moving farther south, Itaim (locals always drop the Bibi part) is similar to Jardins because it also features a plethora of fashionable bars, restaurants, and shops. The suburb is transected by another of the city's most impressive roads, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, which, along with its many cross-streets, has a ton of expensive and exclusive nightlife options. At its western border, Itaim stretches down to the Marginal.
Just north of Itaim and west of Jardins sits Pinheiros (pine trees), another nightlife hot spot chockfull of bars, clubs, and late-night restaurants. The area, with some of the city's most expensive low-rise housing, is also traversed by the popular Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and has the Marginal as its western boundary.
One of the hillier parts of São Paulo with impressive views across the city from the uppermost buildings, Vila Madalena is a relatively small suburb just to the north of Pinheiros. It's yet another nightlife mecca with bohemian-style haunts that stay open until dawn. Bars are stacked one on top of the other, making it a great place for a pub crawl, particularly because it's also one of the city's safest after-dark spots.
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