If You Like in São Paulo
Soccer
São Paulo is home to three of the biggest teams in the country, four if you count nearby Santos of Pelé fame. There are two different seasons: the Brasileirão, a countrywide competition spanning the winter months, and the summer Paulistão, a state tourney that allows teams from lower divisions to take on the big guys. For those looking to see a game, the classicos in which the big teams clash are high stakes—you can see fans at their most spirited, which can make for enthusiastic camaraderie or violent brawls. Choosing a game where the visiting team won't stir up the rabble-rousers will make for a smoother trip.
Arena Corinthians. The modern home of Corinthians, the team of the masses and second-most popular in all of Brazil, this stadium, with a seating capacity of 47,600, is a howling bowl of energy from kickoff to final whistle. This is the team of Brazil’s most dedicated die-hards.
Allianz Parque. Home of Palmeiras, the green, white, and red team whose faithful come from the large Italian presence in the city, the stadium was completely rebuilt ahead of the 2014 World Cup. The Palmeiras-Corinthians rivalry is the biggest in the city.
Estádio Morumbi. This is the biggest stadium in the state and where the classicos are played. Otherwise it's the home turf of the wealthy and successful São Paulo Football Club. It's difficult to get to without a car and it lacks the intimacy of the smaller venues. These days the club is tops, winning state, national, and even an international championship in recent years.
Coffee
Coffee is what started São Paulo's transformation from sleepy town to teeming metropolis, and the drink forms an integral part of city life. Espresso is the drink of choice at most of the city's many cafés, so expect a small hot cup that packs a big punch. It's designed to be gulped in the moment rather than to be slowly sipped. In fact, any conversation with a local about coffee is sure to bring up a disparaging remark about the weak, undrinkable U.S. version. If you take yours with milk, ask for pingado, meaning a “drop.” Coffee shop culture here is a little faster paced, though the comfy chairs and long chats of the American-style cafés are beginning to make an impact.
Chains. Chain cafés like Fran's Café and Café do Ponto serve up a powerful espresso at innumerable outlets around the city, ranging from sit-down cafés to stand-up bars. Resisting the dessert display might be one of the hardest parts of your day.
Lanchonetes. If espresso is not your thing, street-corner lanchonetes (snack bars) serve a slightly weaker brew—just look for the large silver urn on the counter. This coffee might already have sugar, and if so, it's probably sweetened beyond your taste.
Starbucks. Have you no shame? If your addiction to certain multinamed concoctions is strong enough to stomach the idea of buying American coffee in the land of the bean, take a look inside most upper-class malls and you will find what you need.
Shopping
São Paulo is where Brazil earns its money, and those who have it aren't afraid to flaunt it. In Brazil’s richest state—the gross domestic product of the city of São Paulo rivals that of entire neighboring countries—there is no lack of places to consume conspicuously, or drive a hard bargain.
Malls. Called shoppings, these are gems of high commerce, and hordes of Brazilians are content to spend a whole day wandering in and out of the shops. Food courts are expansive and go well beyond fast food. Shopping Morumbi and Shopping Cidade Jardim allow you to gaze at the life of São Paulo’s newly wealthy.
Paulista Mini-Malls. For those with a taste for expensive-looking goods of questionable authenticity, the Chinatown of São Paulo, just one block east of Trianon, might be right up your alley. Two mini-malls face each other, their merchants crammed into tiny booths, selling diverse trinkets from watches and statues to shiny handbags.
Rua 25 de Março. Near metro São Bento, this bazaar of street vendors is only for the brave. Here, shop owners from all over the state come to buy in bulk, so the prices are unbeatable and up for bargaining. If you know a willing Brazilian, take them with you to help with the haggling.
Rua Oscar Freire. Drawing frequent comparisons to L.A.'s Rodeo Drive, this boulevard is lined with boutiques both international and Brazilian. The stores are packed on Saturday and closed on Sunday.
Four-Wheeled Fantasies
Though they do celebrate Carnival, it seems as if the citizenry of São Paulo prefers fast cars to quick-stepping women. Their love of cars shows itself daily in deep conversations about ownership and the daredevil acts performed in city traffic, but it is when the spring rolls around that the passion for all things auto comes on display in two events. On everybody's lips are the newest innovations of the big carmakers, as well as the names of the country's latest racing hopefuls, though none can ever hope to touch Ayrton Senna. His 1994 death elevated the already-famous racer to a legendary status in the national consciousness equaled only by Pelé.
Autódromo de Interlagos—Grand Prix do Brasil. Located on the southern edge of the city, this used to be open to the public during practice runs and time trials of the Grand Prix. Those good old days have been replaced by a mandatory three-day ticket that rivals the golden one of chocolate-factory fame in terms of supply-versus-demand ratios. For those stuck on the outside, TV offers the solace of public channels single-mindedly dedicated to every nuance of the race.
International Motor Show. In a city where stoplight robberies and traffic discourage those who can afford a sports car from showing it off on the streets, the biennial Salão Internacional do Automóvel gives the rest of Brazil a chance to see their dream wheels up close. The 10-day festive show, thanks to the 600,000 people who pass through its gates, provides an unmistakable boost to city hotels, restaurants, and traffic every other October.
