A visit to this all-encompassing daily market, the largest in the state, is a headfirst dive into Bahian culture. Dress down and wander labyrinthine alleys of exotic fruits, squawking chickens, dried flamingo pink prawns, and household goods crafted from palha (straw), before heading into the undercover section, where you will find an entire lane dedicated to accessories for Candomblé practices. Join early-morning vendors for a break at the barracas
that line the edges and try the local speciality of passarinha (fried cow spleen), if you dare, although a cold beer is probably the safer option.
Av. Oscar Pontes, Salvador, 40460–170, Brazil