Salvador and the Bahia Coast Restaurants

The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal, even the simplest of inns will often provide a buffet spread fit for a king—including tropical fruits, eggs, and endless cakes and pancakes crafted from Tapioca. Lunches are usually casual and not strictly defined by the clock, as the hottest part of the day is not the best for large meals. Dinner is the main meal, and starts late, usually around 9. Bahian cuisine is unique and delicious, and a definite reason to visit. The ever-present oleo de dendê (palm oil) is one ingredient that sets it apart from other Brazilian cuisines.

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  • 1. Bar do Raúl

    $$

    The freshest of such Bahian delicacies as mariscada (seafood stew), casquinha de siri (shredded crab), and arroz de polvo (octopus rice) at great-value prices and served right on the beach are what make Raúl’s a longtime local favorite. The service is friendly and slick and the portions so generous that one main course can be shared among three or four people. Set on the beach of Saquaira, Raúl’s is a lot more laid-back than the beach bars in Barra Grande and a good opportunity to catch a slice of local life.

    Praia da Saquaíra s/n, Bahia, 45520–000, Brazil
    073-3258–4019

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 2. Thaicoso

    $$

    A compact menu of delicious, fresh-flavored Thai dishes changes daily at this affordable, alfresco spot, with a handful of candlelit tables set out in front of the vibrant pink facade of ecelctic design shop Quadrado 13. The green papaya salad and sweet-and-sour slow-roasted pork make a particularly welcome change from endless moqueca. A great spot for cocktails, too.

    Praça são João 13, Trancoso, Bahia, 45818-000, Brazil
    073-9905-8405

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
  • 3. Guido's

    $$ | Boipepa

    Local lobster man Guido has grown into something of a Brazilian legend over the past 15 years, since he first began serving up succulent whole lobsters fished right out of the rocks in front of his beachside café on the curved bay of Praia da Cueira, a 30- to 40-minute walk during low tide from Velha Boibepa. It’s a laid-back family affair, with plastic tables and chairs set in the sand and sizeable portions of lobster cooked in spices and honey, served up with traditional rice, beans, and salad.

    Praia da Cueira, Salvador, Bahia, 45420–000, Brazil
    075-9907–7049

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 4. Lá em Casa

    $$

    This Praia de Algodoes restaurant–beach bar is run by Helena and Fernando, a charming couple from Rio, whose tapas-style menu and specials evolve daily around fresh local ingredients and create one of the most pleasant dining experiences in Maraú. Tables are set on a first-floor terrace, so diners have views of the bright green coconut palms framing the ocean. Lá em casa translates as "at home," and there is a relaxed feeling of being guests in a friend's house as Helena bustles in and out of the kitchen while her partner Fernando shakes up mango margaritas. They also offer two comfortable bungalows for rent.

    Rua Praia de Algodões s/n, Bahia, 45520–000, Brazil
    073-9900–9919
  • 5. Pinnochio’s Pizzaria e Restaurante

    $$

    Located just off one of Barra Grande’s charming sandy streets, this no-frills wood-oven pizza place is always packed with groups of friends sharing enormous pizzas, pasta, and homemade lasagna at alfresco tables scattered under an almond tree. Italian owner Marco ensures that the service is quick and the thin-crust pizzas are some of the best in Bahia; try the Primavera, with Parma ham and rocket.

    Av. José Melo Pirajá, Bahia, 45520-000, Brazil
    073-3258–6248

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
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