Rio de Janeiro

It's sometimes said that cariocas would rather expend their energy on the beach and that nighttime is strictly for recharging their batteries and de-sanding their swimsuits, but witnessing the masses swarming into Lapa at 10 pm on a Friday night make this a tricky argument to endorse. New nightclubs and bars continue to sprout up with remarkable regularity, and there are cutting-edge underground rhythms and musical styles competing with samba, chorro, and Brazilian pop (MPB) for the locals' hearts.

A much-loved local pastime is drinking a well-chilled chopp (draft beer) and enjoying the lively atmosphere of a genuine Rio botequim (bar). Every neighborhood has its share of upmarket options (branches of Belmonte and Devassa are dotted around town), but no less enjoyable are the huge number of hole-in-the-wall spots offering ice-cold bottles of cerveja (beer) and the chance to chat with down-to-earth regulars.

Live music is nighttime Rio's raison d'être, with street corners regularly playing host to impromptu renditions. During Carnival the entire city can feel like one giant playground. The electronic-music scene is also very much alive, and the underground popularity of funk (the city's own X-rated genre, not to be confused with the James Brown version) is slowly seeping into the mainstream, down from the huge bailes or open-air parties held weekly in the city's favelas. In addition to samba and MPB, hip-hop, electronica, and rock can be heard in clubs around the city.

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  • 1. Academia da Cachaça

    Leblon

    Not merely the place in Rio to try caipirinhas (made here with a variety of tropical fruits), Academia da Cachaça is a veritable temple to cachaça. The small bar sells close to 100 brands of cachaça by the glass or bottle, as well as mixing the famous sugarcane rum into dangerously drinkable concoctions such as the cocada geladinha—frozen coconut, coconut water, brown sugar, and cachaça. The Northeastern bar snacks here include sun-dried beef, baked palm hearts, and delicious black-bean soup. There's now an affiliate in Barra da Tijuca, but it's hard to beat the Leblon original.

    Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 22430-200, Brazil
    21-2239--1542
  • 2. Bar do Gomez

    Santa Teresa

    Officially Armazem São Thiago, this neighborhood institution is universally referred to by its nickname, Bar do Gomez, in honor of the late owner whose family has run the business for close to 100 years. Pictures documenting the bar's history adorn the high wooden walls, and surveying the scene in the present, you get the pleasant impression that little has changed over the years. The draft beer flows like water, locals swap stories at the long wooden bar, and new friendships are forged at the outdoor drinking posts. Favorites among the bar snacks include the giant olives, a pastrami sandwich, and the shrimp plate. Early on a Friday night, this is a good place to strike up a conversation with locals before heading down the hill to Lapa.

    Rua Aurea 26, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 20240–210, Brazil
    21-2232–0822
  • 3. Bip Bip

    Copacabana

    Here the roda de samba—where musicians sit and play instruments around a central table (in fact the only table in this tiny bar)—is legendary, as is the help-yourself beer policy. The no-nonsense owner makes drink notations and keeps the crowd in check. The standards of the music here are as high as the bar is simple: big-name Brazilian musicians have been known to drop in for a jam session, and on weekend evenings the revelry often spills out onto the street.

    Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 22060–040, Brazil
    21-2267--9696
  • 4. Carioca da Gema

    Lapa

    A favorite among local sambistas (samba musicians) and a great spot to listen to live samba in a comfortable environment, Carioca da Gema is one of Lapa's liveliest spots, with talented musicians performing seven nights a week. By 11 pm, finding a place to stand can be difficult, but regulars still find a way to samba. Call ahead and book a table if you're more keen to be a spectator. There's a good pizzeria downstairs. On paying your entrance fee, you're given a white paper card where all food and drinks are noted and your bill's paid at the cashier at the end of the night. Don't lose it, it's your ticket out at the end of the night!

    Rua Mem de Sá 79, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 20230–150, Brazil
    21-2221–0043

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: From R$23
  • 5. Circo Voador

    Lapa

    A great venue in an excellent location right by the Lapa arches, Circo Voador hosts club nights during the week, but it's the varied live shows that really stand out, with a big stage set under a huge open-sided circular tent and room for up to 1,500 people to dance the night away. Check the website for a regular roster of international acts and local stars.

    Rua dos Arcos s/n, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 20230–060, Brazil
    21-2533--0354

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: From R$25
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  • 6. Nosso

    Ipanema

    This happening hang-out is set on one of Ipanema's prettiest squares. Spread over three floors, it combines a rum bar with a rooftop terrace and vibrant lounge area. The star of the show is mixologist Tai Barbin, who is known for his barrel-aged negronis. Gourmet snacks are available alongside an extensive drinks list and service is reliably attentive.

    Rua Maria Quitéria 91, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 22410-040, Brazil
    21-99619--0099
  • 7. Pedra do Sal

    São Cristóvão

    For one of the most authentic samba experiences in town, head to Monday night's live roda de samba in Pedra do Sal. Located in a residential pocket in the docklands neighborhood of Saúde, crowds of samba-loving locals gather round a central circle of musicians who jam late into the night. The story goes that this spot marks the birthplace of samba in Rio de Janiero and there is a really tangible sense of living heritage here. Although the vibe is welcoming and friendly and crime minimal, go without valuables and little in your pockets so you can relax into the experience. Ice-cold beers and caipirinhas can be bought from surrounding bars and vendors. During summer months, this also takes place on Fridays and is a great spot to kick off a night out, with crowds gathering from around 8 pm. The roda is cancelled in the event of rain.

    R. Argemiro Bulcão, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 20081-040, Brazil
  • 8. Rio Scenarium

    Lapa

    Despite the hordes of samba-seeking tourists, Rio Scenarium somehow manages to retain its authenticity and magic. This is partly due to the incredible setting—a former movie-props warehouse still crammed to the rafters with old instruments, bikes, furniture, and puppets—but also to the great bands and persevering locals who love to show off their moves and entice novices onto the dance floor. On weekends arrive before 9 pm to avoid the lines, or call ahead and book a table. It's closed on Sunday and Monday.

    Rua do Lavrádio 20, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 20230–070, Brazil
    21-3147–9005

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: From R$30
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