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Potosí is not known for its food, but one thing worth trying is the delicious kala’purka soup, made with maize flour and cooked using volcanic stones. You’ll be full for days. There are also claims of Bolivia’s finest salteño (Bolivian empanada) being Potosino; it’s a story most cities like to tell, but it never hurts to eat another one of these tasty treats—just in case.
This tiny, hole-in-the-wall spot with a few mismatched blue tables promises only one thing: salteñas (Bolivian empanadas). And it delivers! Few will disagree that these are the best in town, and plenty may agree that they are among Bolivia's best. They come out in massive batches between 9 and noon, piping hot, spicy, juicy, and tomato rich. If there aren't any in sight, wait for the next batch—it's worth it. These salteñas may be the best thing to eat in Potosí. There is no name outside, so just ask around, or keep an eye out for a small wooden sign hanging by the door that simply says, "Hay Salteñas."
This nighttime spot is one of the most recommended in town, and for good reason—it's well located and popular, and the food is pretty good, though it consists mainly of burgers, pizzas, and vaguely Mexican food. Among the better options are trout and silpancho (a breaded beef cutlet served on a bed of fries, topped with tomato, onion, chili salsa, and a fried egg), a Cochabambino classic. The prices are a bit higher than they should be, considering the at-times sloppy service, but all in all, it's a solid dinner option.
Set in a beautiful building right on the main plaza, this is the perfect spot to warm up after a day of visiting churches. Stop in for a glass of wine and a snack, or coffee and cake. The service is not great, but the food and drinks are above the rather low standard set in the city. Prices are in line with the very tourist central location.
Decent Wi-Fi and breakfast are pretty much all this little coffee shop has going for it, as service has slowed to a painful crawl over the years and the decor is almost completely without personality. If you go for breakfast, order the pancake stack or a healthy bowl of muesli. Some of the sweet cakes and desserts are tasty, so you might also stop in for a mid-morning snack and a cup of refreshing mate de coca (herbal tea).
Head off the cobbled street and down into this warm, subterranean, French restaurant. The space is quite small, with dark wooden tables, light walls, and plenty of wine racks tucked here and there. They have the best steak in town, draped in classic French style with all sorts of heavy sauces, and a good wine menu. Although there are some issues with consistency, and if there is a big table in, it can be a bit noisy, La Taberna is your best choice in the city for a nice evening out.
Colorful and friendly, this is easily the most inviting restaurant in town, with a varied, tasty, and mostly local menu. The staff are attentive (by Potosí standards), and there is a nice mix of locals and tourists. There are good quinoa-based options for those who want to eat light, or the pique macho (a heaping dish of beef and sausage chunks, stacked with fries, boiled eggs, and a chili-and-onion sauce) for those who want to try one of the best, although very meat-heavy, local dishes. The best deal is the daily three-course lunch menu.
A little restaurant with loads of personality—a treat in this city—Pickles feels a bit like a '90s rock-and-roll roll dive bar, complete with walls decorated with signatures and notes from a whole world of visitors. The menu is short but full of great dishes. The picante de día (usually some variation on a spicy stew) makes a great, warming lunch option, and the Milanesa (breaded beef cutlet) or pork ribs will hit the spot later at night as the bar swings into full flow. It's a little shabby, but it's fun, and well worth the visit.
Hidden down a short alley off Calle Sucre, Roberts is a lunch spot that fills up daily with local businessmen who know that this is simply the best bargain in town. The bright yellow decor is a bit harsh, but the service is great—friendly and with a touch of old-school class—and the food is really good, particularly considering the price tag for the lunch menu, which consists of a salad bar, soup, a main, and dessert. The soups tend to be substantial local vegetable or fish, and the mains are standard home-style fare such as fried trout, grilled chicken, or a meat-and-potato stew. Get in early before the salad bar gets demolished.
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