When this 150-year-old estancia was established by the great-grandparents of César and Camilo Aldao Bombal in 1830, San Rafael was still a fort. The ranch house is filled with objects from around the world, and many of Argentina's foremost writers (including Jorge Luis Borges) and artists have stayed here; they left their paintings on walls and their poetry in books scattered around the premises. You dine with the owners, and a fireplace glows in every room on cool nights. Prices include all meals, plus tea on the veranda, an open bar, and wine from the family's 100-year-old vineyard. Horses are available for an extra charge. Pros: Eclectic furnishings; old-world surroundings; intimate family experience. Cons: Outside town; hard to find.
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