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One of the country's oldest wineries, Goyenechea was founded in 1868 by a Basque immigrant family who had the foresight to build not only a solid brick winery, but also 60 houses for the working families, a school for their children, a repair shop, and a chapel. Today fifth-generation families live in the houses, and the school still rings with the laughter of their children. As you pass through the arched caves where wine ages in bottles, you can see the piletas, huge concrete vats that held 8,976 gallons of wine when the industry was focused on quantity, not quality. English-speaking family members often lead tours (if you need a tour led in English, call ahead to make a reservation), and visitors are sometimes invited for wine tastings and snacks next door on the family's patio.
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Thank you to everyone who posted reports and answered my questions over the past year in planning this trip.
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