If you can endure a harrowing five-hour, 50-km (31-mile) ride east from Humahuaca on an unpaved cliffside road, you'll be rewarded with one of Argentina's most stunning settings. (Take the bus from Humahuaca rather than driving yourself; you really have to know the road, as the bus drivers do, to negotiate it safely.) This cobblestoned town, which clings to sheer rock, has become an increasingly popular stop despite its small size. It has just a couple of accommodations,
the Hotel Iruya (3887/482–002) and Hostal Milmahuasi (3887/445-7994), but many villagers offer rooms for rent. The busiest times to visit are at Easter and during the first and second weekends in October, when the village celebrates its festival. There are some good hikes from Iruya to even more remote towns like San Isidro, three hours away through the mountains. For more information and guide recommendations, call Adelina López at the Tourist Office (3887/155-094-799).
Humahuaca, Jujuy, 4633, Argentina