Boat Excursions

Three launches, maintained by the Argentine navy, wait at the dock to take you out on Lago Puelo. The trip to El Turbio, an ancient settlement at the southern end of the lake on the Chilean border, is the longest. One side of the lake is inaccessible, as the Valdivian rain forest grows on steep rocky slopes right down into the water. Campgrounds are at the park entrance by the ranger's station, in a bay on the Brazo Occidental, and at the Turbio and Epuyén river outlets.

Juana de Arco. Board the Juana de Arco, a vintage 1931 naval ship, for either a 45-minute boat trip through Lago Puelo National Park or a 2½-hour one to the Chilean border. At the helm is Javier, who has 25 years of experience and offers lots of local insight. Perito Moreno 1364, El Bolsón, Río Negro, 8430. 2944/498–946; 2944/15–633–838; www.interpatagonia.com/juanadearco. From 150 pesos.