Río Gallegos and Environs

Weather-beaten and worn, there's nothing slick about Río Gallegos, the administrative and commercial capital of Santa Cruz Province and one of the windiest cities in the world. Although the downtown could only be considered cosmopolitan when compared to the desolation of the surrounding steppe, there is a gritty charm to this working-class city nonetheless.

Founded in 1885 on the southern shore of the Río Gallegos river mouth in order to establish Argentine sovereignty over the far south, this port city served as the exit point for coal shipments from Río Túrbio, on the Chilean border. Wool and sheepskins from the inland ranches also contributed to the economy, which was heavily dependent on European markets. These days, energy production provides the economic muscle, and those who make the difficult trek south to the penguin colony at Cabo Virgenes will pass natural-gas derricks that shoot eerie flames against a barren backdrop of windswept plains.

As a gateway city to southern Patagonia, travelers en route south to Ushuaia, north to the Parque Nacional los Glaciares, or west to Chile, are often obliged to spend a night. Although travelers waiting for delayed luggage might complain about "being stuck in this hole," the downtown has a couple of worthwhile museums, comfortable hotels, and decent restaurants. An evening walk along the windswept riverfront promenade is a hair-tousling and soul-awakening experience that might start you humming a mournful Bruce Springsteen song.