The black-and-white photos, lace tablecloths, and quaint knickknacks that clutter this long, low house belie the fact that it was once a brothel. It still has private rooms, but it's dining that politicians and the occasional celeb rent them for these days. You, too, can ask to be seated in one, but consider the airy back dining room, which has views over the river. It's hard to say if it's the flamboyant French-Argentine owner's tall tales that keep regulars returning
or his excellent cooking. Specialties include kingfish, sole, and salmon cooked to order. You can suggest sauces of your own or go with house suggestions like orange-infused cream.