Boarding a catamaran for the four-hour journey across Lago Argentina, you pass a field of giant icebergs in front of the Upsala Glacier—as spectacular as Perito Moreno, minus the crowds—then disembark at Punta Bandera for a short drive up to the three guest lodges, their stark green roofs mirroring the mountain ridges beyond. Not a bad start to your stay in this remote estancia that is fast building a reputation as one of the best in the region. Fill your days with
trekking, horse riding, fly fishing, bird-watching, four-wheel-drive journeys to see the glacier from above, and a visit to the lovingly preserved family museum. At night, return from stargazing to the fireplace and a warming soup; in the morning you rise to jaw-dropping views of Cerro Norte.
Punta Bandera, El Calafate, Santa Cruz, 9405, Argentina