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San Telmo
Sunlight and the smell of solder fill the rooms of this old San Telmo house, which doubles as a store and open workshop for celebrity silversmith Marcelo Toledo. A huge silver mosaic of Evita gives away who Toledo's main muse is: he has created replicas of her own jewelry (he is the only silversmith authorized by her estate to do so) as well as pieces inspired by her. Eva Duarte Perón isn't the only crowd-pleasing politician Toledo's been associated with: a local magnate commissioned cuff links as an inauguration gift for President Obama. He also designed a mate gourd especially for Prince William and his bride, the Duchess of Cambridge.
Humberto I 458, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1130ACJ, Argentina
Shop Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sat.
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San Telmo
"Yes" is pretty much guaranteed if you propose with one of the period engagement rings that dazzle in the window of this antique jeweler. If you're not planning on popping the question any time soon, surely you can find a home for a pair of art deco earrings with the tiniest of diamonds or a gossamer-fine bracelet?
Defensa 1092, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT, Argentina
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Slick skinny jeans, pants, and suits attract sharp twenty- and thirty-something women to Akiabara like metal to a magnet. The slinky tops and soft, asymmetrical knits come unadorned—no prints, no embroidery, just plain lines and good draping.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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San Telmo
An artist-and-architect duo is behind these singular works, which are inspired by native Argentine art. They use an unusual papier-mâché technique to create boxes, frames, tapestries, and freestanding sculptures. The primitive-looking pieces, a vision of rich rusts and earthy browns, make highly original gifts.
Defensa 917, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAQ, Argentina
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Fine, strappy tops in bold fuchsia and tangerine tell you that women who wear Ayres don't mind standing out at the bar. For sweeter wallflowers there are tailored pant suits in dove gray or white, screen-printed cotton sundresses, and retro-inspired winter coats in candy colors. As if that wasn't enough, local jeans lovers give Ayres denim top marks.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Erstwhile purveyors of exuberant floral shirts and other metrosexual menswear, Bensimon has prepped up its act. Its new-look garments—think checked shirts, well-cut chinos, and corduroy jackets—are selling as fast as ever. Thinned-down Scandinavian-look sweaters are tempting in winter, while the hipster jeans beg to be taken home year round.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Complot. "Ready to Rock!" screams Complot's labels, and the clothes live up to the claim. Teenage rebels and older festivalgoers flock here for the signature T-shirts with lyrics or photos of Bowie, Sid Vicious, Blondie, or Radiohead. There are skinny jeans, animal-print leggings, and denim microminis to (mis)match them with. The anoraks are a porteño fashion must come winter.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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A heady mix of coconut and board wax fills the air in this surfwear store: they don't care that the beach is hundreds of miles away, so why should you? Look for Brazilian-made gear from Billabong and Quiksilver, plus local surf brands like Y Tú Quique? Skaters and snow boarders will find their spiritual home here, too.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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San Telmo
Set up like the 19th-century home it once was, Cualquier Verdura gives the otherwise antiques-dominated neighborhood a much-needed kitsch injection. Check out furniture designed by Philippe Starck for Kartell, fun animal-shaped placemats, vinyl records, glow-in-the-dark toys, old-yet-functioning kitchen implements, and books by local photographers and artists calling out for a coffee table.
Humberto I 517, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1103ACK, Argentina
Shop Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Wed.
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Mannequins and merchandise are displays for mere mortals: at Etiqueta Negra, owner Federico Álvarez Castillo's vintage racing cars take pride of place. If you can't afford such a vehicle, chances are you can't afford the clothes either. But the classic suits and Italian-cotton shirts ooze old-school Hollywood glamour and the beautiful finishes are worth breaking the bank for.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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San Telmo
Gabriel's good taste means 50-year-old Louis Vuitton trunks don't look out of place beside wooden church statues or scale-model ships with canvas sails. Ceramic rubber-glove molds, one of his specialties, are some of the more accessible conversation pieces. The flagship store takes up a sizable patch of the Plaza Dorrego shop front; there's a second shop at Libertad 1214 in Recoleta.
Bethlem 427, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1103ABA, Argentina
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San Telmo
Sequined flapper dresses, dashing white-linen suits, and creamy lace wedding veils are some of the items you might stumble across in this casa chorizo, a typical multiroom property that stretches back to the next block. Period accessories include Castilian hair combs and lacy fans that beg you to bat your lashes from behind them.
Humberto I 412, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1103ACJ, Argentina
Shop Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
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San Telmo
White-leather trefoil chairs and gleaming walnut side tables with black-lacquer details are among the many heavenly furniture items in this art-deco emporium. Much more packable (though not cheap) are the Clarice Cliff dinner services or French rosewood cigar boxes.
Defensa 1016/18, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT, Argentina
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San Telmo
Argentina's legendary orefebre (silversmith) has made pieces for a mile-long list of celebrities including Frank Sinatra, Sharon Stone, Antonio Banderas, Bill Clinton, Nelson Mandela, and the king and queen of Spain. A set of ornate silver-handled steak knives is the perfect memento of cow country, although it will set you back several grand.
Defensa 1039, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAS, Argentina
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Local rugby players love this brand—one of the few to stock sizes large enough to fit them. Rugby and polo jerseys are a welcome variation on soccer shirts as sporty souvenirs; T-shirts printed with rugby caricatures are a more humorous option. Less macho basics include good-quality shirts and polos in a rainbow of pastels. The functional anoraks look almost too cool among classic khakis and V-necks.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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San Telmo
A Spanish-style abode built in 1745 contains several tempting shops. One is filled with enough miniature wooden furniture to fill several dollhouses; another sells golden-age Argentine cinema posters. Wind-up monkeys, brass fittings, old apothecary bottles, and vintage leather suitcases are other interesting finds.
Defensa 1170, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAV, Argentina
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This is Argentina's budget answer to Polo by Ralph Lauren: the logo is two crossed polo sticks, and yes, polo shirts are the best seller. But there are also well-made khakis, Argyle sweaters, jackets, and shirts in preppy cuts and plain colors. Pink, light-blue, and sandy yellow are favorite tones.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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San Telmo
The quirky, postmodern souvenirs this store specializes in are a welcome variation from classic mate gourds or gaucho knives. Take the ubiquitous cow, which has been reformed into a leather vampire-bat key holder, or the piglet change purse. Beautiful bags, silver and steel bijouterie as well as tango-themed soaps are cute gift options. Head upstairs to browse clothes by a variety of designers.
Defensa 702, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAM, Argentina
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San Telmo
Everything a gentleman needs to accessorize like a lord is arrayed in the minimalist storefront. Vintage timepieces are the specialty, from turn-of-the-20th-century pocket watches to a 14k gold 1950s Longines wristwatch with a snakeskin strap. Jeweled tiepins, cuff links, cigarette cases, and even an evil dog-headed walking cane round out the stock.
Defensa 1088, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT, Argentina
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Despite turning out jeans, retro-print tees, and hoodies that rival those of other local brands, Old Bridge has somehow never hit Buenos Aires' most-wanted list. All the better for you: the quality is as good as the competition but prices are much lower.
Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina