Buenos Aires

Whether you're looking for a unique handicraft, the latest boutique-vineyard malbec, a one-off pair of rhodochrosite earrings, or jeans no one's got back home, you're bound to leave Buenos Aires with your suitcases full. Argentina’s designers inject their wares with creativity, and innovative items can be found everywhere from elite boutiques to neighborhood street fairs.

If you love the hustle and bustle, elbow your way through the city's outdoor ferias. The array of open-air markets testifies to the fact that locals enjoy stall-trawling as much as visitors do. Crafts—whether traditional or contemporary—often take center stage, with artisans proudly selling their own creations; however, the selection can also include art, antiques, curios, clothing, jewelry, and assorted household goods.

At the other end of the spectrum, this city certainly isn’t lacking in high-end couture. During Fashion Weeks (www.bafweek.com.ar) in February and August, Buenos Aires turns the spotlight on both its world-class designers and its talented up-and-comers. But at any time of year you can swank it up at Patio Bullrich or at posh Recoleta boutiques where the security is as tight as an airport.

Clothing bargains are harder to find than they once were, but that doesn’t mean visitors should pay through the nose. Although haggling isn’t commonplace, do ask for a discount if paying in cash, especially if you decide to snap up leather wrist cuffs for all your cousins at a sidewalk stall. Also look out for the tax refund sticker in many shop windows.

Argentina is cow central, and leather goods—from boots to jackets to polo saddles—are an excellent value. Buenos Aires' well-established antiques trade is also thriving, but modern houseware shops are putting up some fierce competition. On the wine front, many local vintages still aren't exported, so this may be your only chance to try wines from regions other than Mendoza.

It’s not just about retail therapy, either. Part of the Buenos Aires experience can be wandering around and stepping, unexpectedly, into a restored mansion selling silk frocks and vertigo-inducing heels, then taking a break at a bistro or juice bar. People-watching is the name of the game. Known for their good looks, Argentineans like to watch and be watched from the café sidelines.

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  • 1. Marcelo Toledo

    San Telmo

    Sunlight and the smell of solder fill the rooms of this old San Telmo house, which doubles as a store and open workshop for celebrity silversmith Marcelo Toledo. A huge silver mosaic of Evita gives away who Toledo's main muse is: he has created replicas of her own jewelry (he is the only silversmith authorized by her estate to do so) as well as pieces inspired by her. Eva Duarte Perón isn't the only crowd-pleasing politician Toledo's been associated with: a local magnate commissioned cuff links as an inauguration gift for President Obama. He also designed a mate gourd especially for Prince William and his bride, the Duchess of Cambridge.

    Humberto I 458, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1130ACJ, Argentina
    11-4362–0841

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sat.
  • 2. Abraxas

    San Telmo

    "Yes" is pretty much guaranteed if you propose with one of the period engagement rings that dazzle in the window of this antique jeweler. If you're not planning on popping the question any time soon, surely you can find a home for a pair of art deco earrings with the tiniest of diamonds or a gossamer-fine bracelet?

    Defensa 1092, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT, Argentina
    11-4362–7512
  • 3. Akiabara

    Slick skinny jeans, pants, and suits attract sharp twenty- and thirty-something women to Akiabara like metal to a magnet. The slinky tops and soft, asymmetrical knits come unadorned—no prints, no embroidery, just plain lines and good draping.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 4. Artepampa

    San Telmo

    An artist-and-architect duo is behind these singular works, which are inspired by native Argentine art. They use an unusual papier-mâché technique to create boxes, frames, tapestries, and freestanding sculptures. The primitive-looking pieces, a vision of rich rusts and earthy browns, make highly original gifts.

    Defensa 917, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAQ, Argentina
    11-4362–6406
  • 5. Ayres

    Fine, strappy tops in bold fuchsia and tangerine tell you that women who wear Ayres don't mind standing out at the bar. For sweeter wallflowers there are tailored pant suits in dove gray or white, screen-printed cotton sundresses, and retro-inspired winter coats in candy colors. As if that wasn't enough, local jeans lovers give Ayres denim top marks.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
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  • 6. Bensimon

    Erstwhile purveyors of exuberant floral shirts and other metrosexual menswear, Bensimon has prepped up its act. Its new-look garments—think checked shirts, well-cut chinos, and corduroy jackets—are selling as fast as ever. Thinned-down Scandinavian-look sweaters are tempting in winter, while the hipster jeans beg to be taken home year round.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 7. Complot

    Complot. "Ready to Rock!" screams Complot's labels, and the clothes live up to the claim. Teenage rebels and older festivalgoers flock here for the signature T-shirts with lyrics or photos of Bowie, Sid Vicious, Blondie, or Radiohead. There are skinny jeans, animal-print leggings, and denim microminis to (mis)match them with. The anoraks are a porteño fashion must come winter.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 8. Cristóbal Colón

    A heady mix of coconut and board wax fills the air in this surfwear store: they don't care that the beach is hundreds of miles away, so why should you? Look for Brazilian-made gear from Billabong and Quiksilver, plus local surf brands like Y Tú Quique? Skaters and snow boarders will find their spiritual home here, too.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 9. Cualquier Verdura

    San Telmo

    Set up like the 19th-century home it once was, Cualquier Verdura gives the otherwise antiques-dominated neighborhood a much-needed kitsch injection. Check out furniture designed by Philippe Starck for Kartell, fun animal-shaped placemats, vinyl records, glow-in-the-dark toys, old-yet-functioning kitchen implements, and books by local photographers and artists calling out for a coffee table.

    Humberto I 517, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1103ACK, Argentina
    11-4300–2474

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Wed.
  • 10. Etiqueta Negra

    Mannequins and merchandise are displays for mere mortals: at Etiqueta Negra, owner Federico Álvarez Castillo's vintage racing cars take pride of place. If you can't afford such a vehicle, chances are you can't afford the clothes either. But the classic suits and Italian-cotton shirts ooze old-school Hollywood glamour and the beautiful finishes are worth breaking the bank for.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 11. Gabriel del Campo Anticuario

    San Telmo

    Gabriel's good taste means 50-year-old Louis Vuitton trunks don't look out of place beside wooden church statues or scale-model ships with canvas sails. Ceramic rubber-glove molds, one of his specialties, are some of the more accessible conversation pieces. The flagship store takes up a sizable patch of the Plaza Dorrego shop front; there's a second shop at Libertad 1214 in Recoleta. 

    Bethlem 427, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1103ABA, Argentina
    11-3319–4686
  • 12. Gil Antigüedades

    San Telmo

    Sequined flapper dresses, dashing white-linen suits, and creamy lace wedding veils are some of the items you might stumble across in this casa chorizo, a typical multiroom property that stretches back to the next block. Period accessories include Castilian hair combs and lacy fans that beg you to bat your lashes from behind them.

    Humberto I 412, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1103ACJ, Argentina
    11-4361–5019

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 13. HB Anticuario

    San Telmo

    White-leather trefoil chairs and gleaming walnut side tables with black-lacquer details are among the many heavenly furniture items in this art-deco emporium. Much more packable (though not cheap) are the Clarice Cliff dinner services or French rosewood cigar boxes.

    Defensa 1016/18, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT, Argentina
    11-4361–3325
  • 14. Juan Carlos Pallarols Orfebre

    San Telmo

    Argentina's legendary orefebre (silversmith) has made pieces for a mile-long list of celebrities including Frank Sinatra, Sharon Stone, Antonio Banderas, Bill Clinton, Nelson Mandela, and the king and queen of Spain. A set of ornate silver-handled steak knives is the perfect memento of cow country, although it will set you back several grand.

    Defensa 1039, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAS, Argentina
    11-4300–6555
  • 15. Kevingston

    Local rugby players love this brand—one of the few to stock sizes large enough to fit them. Rugby and polo jerseys are a welcome variation on soccer shirts as sporty souvenirs; T-shirts printed with rugby caricatures are a more humorous option. Less macho basics include good-quality shirts and polos in a rainbow of pastels. The functional anoraks look almost too cool among classic khakis and V-necks.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 16. La Candelaria

    San Telmo

    A Spanish-style abode built in 1745 contains several tempting shops. One is filled with enough miniature wooden furniture to fill several dollhouses; another sells golden-age Argentine cinema posters. Wind-up monkeys, brass fittings, old apothecary bottles, and vintage leather suitcases are other interesting finds.

    Defensa 1170, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAV, Argentina
    No phone
  • 17. Legacy

    This is Argentina's budget answer to Polo by Ralph Lauren: the logo is two crossed polo sticks, and yes, polo shirts are the best seller. But there are also well-made khakis, Argyle sweaters, jackets, and shirts in preppy cuts and plain colors. Pink, light-blue, and sandy yellow are favorite tones.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina
  • 18. Materia Urbana

    San Telmo

    The quirky, postmodern souvenirs this store specializes in are a welcome variation from classic mate gourds or gaucho knives. Take the ubiquitous cow, which has been reformed into a leather vampire-bat key holder, or the piglet change purse. Beautiful bags, silver and steel bijouterie as well as tango-themed soaps are cute gift options. Head upstairs to browse clothes by a variety of designers.

    Defensa 702, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAM, Argentina
    11-4361-5265
  • 19. Midas Antigüedades

    San Telmo

    Everything a gentleman needs to accessorize like a lord is arrayed in the minimalist storefront. Vintage timepieces are the specialty, from turn-of-the-20th-century pocket watches to a 14k gold 1950s Longines wristwatch with a snakeskin strap. Jeweled tiepins, cuff links, cigarette cases, and even an evil dog-headed walking cane round out the stock.

    Defensa 1088, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT, Argentina
    11-4307-1314
  • 20. Old Bridge

    Despite turning out jeans, retro-print tees, and hoodies that rival those of other local brands, Old Bridge has somehow never hit Buenos Aires' most-wanted list. All the better for you: the quality is as good as the competition but prices are much lower.

    Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina

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