El Sanjuanino

El Sanjuanino Review

Mostly tourists from the nearby hotels flock to this Northern Argentine regional spot, but you'll spot some longtime locals, particularly at lunchtime. It's cramped, crowded, and kitschy, and in hot weather the roaring wood-fired ovens can make the main floor a bit too toasty (head downstairs, where it's cooler), but it's worth it for great empanadas, the city's best locro (corn, squash, and meat stew), and, if you're feeling adventurous, one of their iconic game dishes. Don't bother with the wine list, the house wine served in pitchers is just as good at half the price. The waiters have fun with the crowd, and generally speak at least basic conversational phrases in a half-dozen or more languages.