Tourists from the nearby hotels flock to this Northern Argentine regional spot, but you'll definitely also see lots of locals, particularly at lunchtime. It's cramped, crowded, and kitschy, and in hot weather the roaring wood-fired ovens can make the main floor a bit too toasty (head downstairs, where it's cooler), but it's worth it for great empanadas, the city's best locro (corn, squash, and meat stew), and, if you're feeling adventurous, one of the iconic game
dishes. Don't bother with the wine list, because the house wine served in pitchers is just as good at half the price. The waiters have fun with the crowd, and speak at least basic conversational phrases in a half dozen or more languages.