Eva Duarte de Perón, known universally as Evita, was the wife of populist president Juan Domingo Perón and one of the most important and controversial figures of recent Argentine history. She unfailingly caused extreme reactions and was both revered as a saint by her working-class followers, and despised by the anglophile oligarchy of the time. The excellent Museo Evita tries to get away from images of Madonna belting out "Don't Cry For Me Argentina" and convey as many facts about Evita's life and works as possible. The solid, gray-stone mansion that houses the museum was built in 1909 by the Carabaza family. In 1948 the building was purchased by the Fundación de Ayuda Social Eva Perón (Eva Perón Social Aid Foundation) and converted into a transitory home for single mothers, to the horror of the rich, conservative families living nearby. With the fall of Perón's government in 1955 the house was requisitioned as an administrative building until mid-2002, when the museum opened.

The main entrance leads into a columned medieval-style hall watched over by portraits of Evita and General Perón. To the right, a darkened room screening intense footage of thousands of mourners queuing to see Evita's body begins the well-labeled route through the collection. Evita's humble origins and life as a B-list actress before meeting Perón are documented on the ground floor.

Upstairs, shining parquet, heavy wood doors, and ornamental stone molding surround videos and artifacts that tell the tale of Evita's political career, particularly the social aid programs she instituted and her key role in getting women the vote. Evita's reputation as national fashion-plate is reflected in the many designer outfits on display. The final rooms follow Evita's withdrawal from political life and her death from cancer at age 33. Downstairs are a temporary exhibition space, a small gift shop, and a quiet café with a sunny patio. Laminated cards with English translations of the exhibits are available in each room and at the ticket booth. Knowledgeable, friendly staffers answer questions enthusiastically. Excellent guided visits are available in Spanish or English but must be arranged by phone in advance.

Highlights: English-subtitled footage of Evita's incendiary speeches to screaming crowds. The Patio Andaluz (Andalucian Patio), used as a play area by the children once housed here and decorated with hand-painted Spanish tiles with ultramarine and gold designs.

Strangest Detail: The posthumous fate of Evita's cadaver, which was embalmed by Perón, stolen by political opponents, and moved and hidden for 17 years before being returned to Argentina, where it now rests in the Recoleta Cemetery.

On the Menu: A creamy slice of torta de ricotta (ricotta cheesecake) and a café con leche (coffee with frothy milk) at one of the museum café's outside tables, shaded by classy black umbrellas.