For a breather, try the favorite haunt of literary greats Jorge Luis Borges and Roberto Arlt, the Café Tortoni. It dates from 1858, making it the town's oldest café. A lowlit, ornate interior—all old-world elegance—makes it the perfect place for a café con leche con medialunas (coffee and croissants). Evenings, things heat up with tango and jazz performances.
For a more filling lunch, consider the traditional Iberian offerings in the neighborhood's unofficial Spanish quarter, on the other side of Avenida 9 de Julio. Hearty paellas and stews are worth going a block south of Avenida de Mayo to parallel street Hipólito Irigoyen's intersection with Salta. One of the corner restaurants, El Imparcial, got its name because of its owners' neutral stance during the Spanish Civil War, when talking politics was forbidden within.
Reviewed by PatiofCA from La Jolla, CA on 1/8/07
We thought we would just peak in, as many people do, but the atmosphere was so congenial that we decided that we would have a cup of coffee. We watched as the food went by, so we ended up ordering a cheeseburger. WOW!! We have told everyone since how wonderful it was for less than $3 US. We even went back to have another. The area is easy to get to, its a short walk from the Casa Rosada and the pictures and memorabilia are incredible.
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