Stave off lunch long enough to check out the ornate Casa de Cultura, topped by a torch-bearing statue of Athena. Look closely for the newspaper under the bronze goddess's arm: the building was once the headquarters of conservative newspaper La Prensa, but was requisitioned by Perón, fed up of their criticism of his government. It's now the property of the city which organizes regular classical concerts in its exquisite Versailles-inspired Salón Dorado, where writer Borges gave his first conference.
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