Ølsen is a showcase for Nordic flavors and contemporary Scandinavian design. Past the walled sculpture garden and white lounge chairs is a cavern of exposed-brick walls. Lime-green furniture and cowhide barstools lend a '70s feel. Best are the smørrebrød (open sandwiches) with different vodka shots (the vodka selection is impressive here); other starters like gravlax and rösti (crispy sautéed potatoes) are better than the often dry and underseasoned meat entrées. This is the place for Sunday brunch.
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