This century-old café is one of the best spots for newcomers to learn some basic tango steps and enjoy a casual bite to eat. Downstairs, a cavernous space with beautiful marble columns is dotted with tables where you can relax with a coffee and pastry (the glazed tea cookies are famed citywide). If you're feeling a little hungrier, dig in to simple local fare like a milanesa (breaded veal cutlet), a pizza, or one of a selection of salads and sandwiches. The kitchen
closes at 8 pm. Upstairs is the tango hall, where inexpensive lessons can be had two or three times a day. Outside of class hours there's often a tango show, and in the evenings there's always a milonga, open to anyone who just wants to show up and dance tango.