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Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here three things have come together to create a truly modern cu
Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here
Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. O
Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.
There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here three things have come together to create a truly modern cuisine: diverse cultural influences, high culinary aspirations, and a relentless devotion to aesthetics, from plate garnishes to room décor. Tradition dictates late dining, and the majority of restaurants don’t open until 8 or 9 pm for dinner and don’t get busy until after 10. Dinner is a leisurely affair, and the sobremesa, or after-dinner chat over coffee or digestifs, is nearly obligatory. Rushing from the table is frowned on—anyway, where would you go? Bars and clubs often don’t open until after midnight.
The core of the population is of Italian and Spanish heritage, and pizza, pasta, paella, and puchero (beef boil) are as common as the parrilla (steakhouse). Argentines have taken the classics and made them their own with different techniques and ingredients, but they’re still recognizable to the international traveler. Pizzas and empanadas are the favored local snack food, the former piled high with cheese, the latter typically filled with steak or chicken. And while steak is indisputably king in this town, it’s got fierce competition in tender Patagonian lamb, game meats, fish, and shellfish. In contrast to that of much of Latin America, Argentine cuisine is not known for its spice, and picante dishes are not common.
Cafés, too, are an important part of the culture, and locals will stop in at their favorite for a cafecito at least once a day, not only to knock back a little caffeine, but also to see friends and catch up on the latest news and gossip.
In a city filled with Spanish and Basque restaurants, there's not much of a tapas bar scene in Buenos Aires. El Burladero provides a mix of bar seating and communal tables, along with a more formal dining room, where you can mix and mingle with other diners. It serves up not only the best tapas selection in town, but also some of the best Spanish food. Don't miss one of the city's most satisfying versions of chipirones en su tinta (baby squid in its own ink), or the mouthwatering conejo en sidra (rabbit braised in cider). And speaking of cider, the bar pulls pints of the stuff to start off or accompany your meal. At lunch there's a fantastic three-course menu that costs less than a main course off the à la carte selection.
Pres. J.E. Uriburu 1488, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1114, Argentina
Much like the neighborhood in which it resides, El Globo is touristy but good. Hearty pucheros (mixed boiled meat dinners), roast suckling pig, squid, and other Spanish-Argentine fare are served in a large dining area, as they have been since the restaurant opened in 1908. The cazuela de mariscos (seafood stew) is another specialty.
Hipólito Yrigoyen 1199, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1086, Argentina
This is the city's oldest restaurant, dating back to the 1860s. The name, which translates as "impartial," was meant to offer up neutral territory for various Spanish and Basque factions that emigrated to the city during the mid-19th century. The menu is a mix of local Argentine fare and classic Spanish dishes. You're not necessarily going to be wowed by anything, but you're also never going to be disappointed. The paella and other rice dishes, particularly those with seafood, are the way to go. At lunchtime there's a three-course prix-fixe menu that comes in at less than the price of an à la carte appetizer. Don't miss the natilla madrileña (custard with caramel) for dessert.
Hipólito Yrigoyen 1201, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1086, Argentina
The heart of Catalán beats at this popular tapas bar. Grab a seat at the counter—this one of the few food bars in the city—or snuggle in at one of the cozy, romantic tables. Tancat features Spanish cooking at its best: simple, well-flavored, and expertly cooked. The stars here, besides the array of tapas, are the paella and other stellar seafood dishes. Best yet, this is one of the most reasonably priced Spanish restaurants in the city, especially for the quality.
Paraguay 645, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1057, Argentina
At this Andalusian restaurant you'll have trouble choosing between the lamb tagine (a rich, dark stew cooked with plums and almonds), the Pastel Andalusí (a sweet-and-sour phyllo packed with lamb and chicken), or the goat-cheese, saffron, and wild mushroom risotto. The torta antigua (chocolate cake) is not to be missed. You can eat in a tented dining room under the ceramic lights of the quieter rust-red bar or stretch out on sofas draped with Moroccan rugs beside a tiled fountain in the plant-filled courtyard.
Godoy Cruz 1823, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1425, Argentina
You know wine is going to be important here when you step in and see the gleaming glass wine cave that dominates the back wall, and that's what owner Marcelo Soto intends. A regularly changing selection of some of Argentina's best wines, many available by the glass, are paired up with some of the best Spanish tapas in the city. Don't miss his grandmother's rendition of a tortilla española or, if you're feeling adventurous, the sampler plate of delicious offal preparations. Share multiple small plates or order from the equally good dinner menu.
Bolívar 933, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1066, Argentina
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