Buenos Aires isn't just the most cutting-edge food town in Argentina—it's the most cutting-edge food town in the southern hemisphere. Here three things have come together to create a truly modern cuisine: diverse cultural influences, high culinary aspirations, and a relentless devotion to aesthetics, from plate garnishes to room decor.And yet, at their core, even the most-modern international
And yet, at their core, even the most-modern international restaurants in Buenos Aires are fundamentally porteño, deeply informed by this city's aristocratic appreciation of the pleasure of a good bottle of wine, shared with friends and family, over a long and languid meal. People may eat dinner at 10 pm or 10:30 pm all over Argentina, but only in Buenos Aires are you likely to see a family, toddlers in tow, strolling into their local parrilla (steak house) at midnight.
Three areas—Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, and Las Cañitas—have emerged as the epicenters of Argentina's modern food movement. In these neighborhoods sushi is all the rage, and you can find Patagonian lamb, trout, and king crab rubbing elbows with Asian curries and northern Argentine locros (stews).
But much of the old guard still stands strong. Most porteños have Italian ancestry, which is evident in the proliferation of pizzerias all over the city, from the simple shops to the trendy pizza-and-champagne joints. But don't miss the chance to try the deeper-dish Argentine-style pizza, the most classic of which is the muzzarella (cheese and tomato pizza) and the immortal combination of jamón (ham), morrón (roasted red pepper), and aceitunas (olives).
Cafés are also a big part of Buenos Aires culture: open long hours, they constantly brim with locals knocking back a quick cafecito (espresso) or taking their time over a café con leche (coffee with milk). And finally, there are the delicious heladerías (ice-cream shops) to finish it all off.
During the past two decades Argentina has transformed into an international wine powerhouse, becoming the fifth leading wine producer in the...
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