Go to the Gauchos

Go to the Gauchos

In the late 19th century, well-to-do European families bought huge blocks of land in the pampas. Here they built their estancias (ranches), often with luxurious houses reminiscent of the old country. The advent of industrial agriculture put most of these crop or beef farms out of business. Today many are luxurious bed-and-breakfasts or tourist attractions. The gauchos and peones (ranch hands) who once kept the cows and worked the land are now putting on riding shows or preparing large-scale asados (wood barbecues). But the estancia can be a jarringly real experience of old-time feudalism. Mate is sipped at afternoon tea, when the estanciero (ranch owner) sits down with his ranch hands in a gesture of communion.

You can do a day trip from Buenos Aires to an estancia, which is typically spent enjoying an asado, barbecue accompanied by empanadas and red wine, while watching a demonstration of gaucho skill and dexterity. These day-packages are known as a día de campo, and include transport, meals, and activities. Alternatively, you can stay overnight or for a weekend. Accommodations, food, and activities vary greatly at each estancia, but for the real experience try to opt for one still run by a family, rather than by a hotel chain. You can count on comfortable lodgings with equal parts rusticity and European flair. Horseback riding may or may not be an option. And, no, you won't be asked to do chores.

All of the estancias listed below are within a few hours drive from Buenos Aires, and many will arrange private transport. Although some are close to towns or villages, it's rare to leave the estancia during a stay. San Antonio de Areco is one town with estancias.

Estancia Cabaña Los Dos Hermanos. Horses are the focus of the action at this low-key estancia; there are no fancy shows here, just lots of riding. The owners, Ana and Pancho Peña, welcome guests personally. If you're not up for the cowboy act, they have a carriage in which to tour the land in style. Rustic cabins have heavy wood furniture and lots of horse-related decorations on the walls. Meals are homey, revolving round lots of beef. Ruta 193, Km 10.5, Escalada, 2800. 11/4765-4320. www.estancialosdoshermanos.com. 3 rooms, 5 cabins. In-hotel: pool, laundry service. No credit cards. All-inclusive

Juan Gerónimo. South of La Plata in the tiny village of Veronica, this estancia, which is said to have once belonged to a shipwrecked English bandit, makes a perfect weekend getaway. The early 1920s ranch is set on a mammoth plot of land. Day visits can be arranged. Horse enthusiasts love the grounds—there are 150 horses to choose from, and it's said that you can ride around the estancia for three days without covering the same terrain. In Veronica, 100 km (63 mi) south of La Plata, 165 km (103 mi) south of Buenos Aires, Arroyo 873, Buenos Aires, 1007. 11/4937-4326 Buenos Aires reservations; 2221/481-414 estancia. www.juangeronimo.com.ar. 11 rooms. In-hotel: pool, laundry service. AE, MC, V. All-inclusive

El Rosario de Areco. The same family has owned this ochre-colored estancia since 1892, and though it's now a slick outfit it retains a family feel. Rooms are in renovated stable buildings and a former barn houses the dining room and living area. The estancia runs a polo school; it offers single lessons as well as week-long polo packages. Ruta 41, San Antonio de Areco, 2760. 2326/451-000. www.rosariodeareco.com.ar. 16 rooms. In-room: Internet. In-hotel: bar, pool. No credit cards. All-inclusive

Santa Rita. A path shaded by gum trees and ombúes leads up to the rose-colored main house, which dates to 1790, making Santa Rita one of the oldest estancias in Argentina. A huge open-plan living room has exposed brick walls and a sunken seating area ideal for curling up with a book. Up the majestic main staircase are spacious, wooden-floored rooms lit by chandeliers and kept warm by log fires; some even have four-poster beds. Antonio Carboni, Lobos, 7240. 2227/495-026. www.santa-rita.com.ar. 13 rooms. In-hotel: pool, bicycles. No credit cards. All-inclusive

Villa Maria. This incredible Norman-Tudor mansion on 110 acres of countryside is evocative of the estates of English landed gentry. The expansive estate was bought in the 1890s by one of Argentina's wealthiest families. The crops were planted then, but the mansion itself—designed by Argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo—wasn't built until 1923. Whether wandering amidst the grounds, designed by Carlos Thays (of Buenos Aires botanical gardens fame), horseback riding, or sitting down to a formal, family-style lunch in the colonial dining room, you can live out your aristocratic Argentine fantasies here. R205, Km 47, Máximo Paz, 1814. 2274/450-909 Estancia; 11/4322-7785 Buenos Aires reservations. www.estanciavillamaria.com. 15 rooms. In-hotel: tennis court, pool, bicycles, laundry service. No credit cards. 3 meals