Ecuador's Bounty

Ecuador's Bounty

Seafood is a mainstay on the coast, though even Quito menus routinely feature fresh fish and seafood. Lobster is a staple on the Pacific coast, and along the north coast seafood is prepared encocados (in coconut milk). If you're a very adventurous carnivore, you may want to try succulent suckling pig and guinea pig (called cuyes), often roasted -- teeth, paws, and all -- over a charcoal fire. Seco de chivo is a fully garnished lamb stew. Humitas are sweet-corn tamales eaten by tradition-minded Ecuadorans only in the late afternoon, generally with black coffee. Other Andean favorites include llapingachos (mashed cheese and potato pancakes) and locro de queso (a milk-based soup that contains corn, potatoes, and a garnish of fresh avocado). An Ecuadoran specialty, seviche is fish or seafood marinated in lime juice and seasoned with onion, tomato, chili peppers, and cilantro and often served with cangil (popcorn), as are most soups. Churrasco is a steak fillet with a fried egg, usually accompanied by rice and salad. Typical coastal cuisine includes the staple arroz con menestra, huge portions of white rice served with either black beans or lentils, and patacones, green bananas fried in oil, smashed, and refried. Many dishes are served with ají, a hot sauce, on the side. In the chill of the Andes, you might be offered a canelazo, which is cane-sugar liquor heated and mixed with cinnamon and sometimes with fruit juice.

In the major cities you can enjoy international or traditional Ecuadoran dishes at wonderfully low prices -- but watch out, because wines and most liquors are imported and can double the tab. If you're on a tight budget, ask for a set plate meal for $1 to $2. The main meal of the day is almuerzo, or lunch, which typically consists of meat or fish accompanied by rice and fried potatoes and a small salad. Time to relax after such a large meal is essential.

Many restaurants in Quito, Otavalo, and Baños offer vegetarian dishes. If you don't see any on the menu, just ask.

A word of caution: don't eat from vendors on the street, drink only bottled water, and to be on the safe side, ask for your drinks sin hielo (without ice).

Cafeterias and inexpensive restaurants are often open throughout the day, and may keep limited evening hours. More expensive restaurants open for lunch between noon and 4, then reopen for dinner at 7 and serve until 10 or later. Many restaurants close on Sunday, a quiet day in most communities. While most upscale restaurants do not require a coat and tie, Ecuadorans do dress up for dinner. You may feel a bit shabby, or even be spurned by your waiter, if you do not follow suit.