What's Your Beach Style?

What's Your Beach Style?

Rio's circuit of praias (beaches) begins with Flamengo, on Guanabara Bay, but the best strands are in the Zona Sul. Beaches are the city's pulse points: exercise centers, gathering places, lovers' lanes. Although cariocas wander into the water to cool off, most spend their time sunning and socializing, not swimming. Copacabana and Ipanema are nerve centers. Beaches west of São Conrado are increasingly isolated and undeveloped.

Praia do Flamengo. Power-walkers, volleyballers, and yoga enthusiasts come to Flamengo Beach to work up a sweat. It isn't a tourist destination, and you rarely see people swimming (pollution can be a problem) or sunbathing.

Praia do Botafogo. The view of the bay and the Sugar Loaf from this beach is breathtaking, but it isn't a popular beach with tourists or even locals, due to pollution in the bay waters.

Praia do Vermelha. This tiny beach neighboring the Pão de Açucar has beautiful scenery but polluted waters. It's generally populated only by cariocas who live nearby.

Praia do Leme. A continuation of Copacabana Beach, Leme has a similar feel. Lined with kiosks and volleyball nets, it's a popular with locals and tourists.

Praia do Diabo. Between Ipanema and Copacabana, this small strip attracts surfers. The view is beautiful, and if you're at Ipanema, it's worth the walk to Praia do Diabo.

Praia de Copacabana. The city's grande dame, Copacabana is a 3-km (2-mi) stretch packed to the gills on sunny days with sunbathers, vendors, and athletes. Kiosks along its busy promenade have snacks and drinks. Cafés and high-rise hotels line the waterfront avenue.

Praia de Ipanema. Always-crowded Ipanema is smaller than Copacabana, but equally famous. It's a perfect place to sunbathe and people-watch. At the east end is the dramatic rock formation Pedra do Arpoador; visible to the west, past Leblon, is the Morro Dois Irmaos (Two Brothers Mountain) and the hillside Vidigal favela.

Praia do Leblon. Ipanema Beach extends west to meet Leblon Beach, which has the same feel. It's very popular for exercising on the sand or boardwalk. Water pollution is a problem.

Praia do São Conrado. Hang gliders land here after leaping from a nearby peak. The proximity to the Rocinha favela keeps many people away. Tourists are rare.

Praia Barra da Tijuca. Rio's longest beach (18 km/11 mi) has clean and cool waters. Its far end, called Recreio dos Bandeirantes, was a fishing village until the late 1960s. The neighborhood of Barra da Tijuca feels like a suburb, and the beach reflects that. It attracts families with young children and older folks out for a stroll.

Prainha. Just beyond Barra da Tijuca, Prainha has rough seas that make it popular with surfers. It's nearly empty on weekdays.

Praia de Grumari. The copper sands of this lovely beach are packed on weekends. It has little infrastructure but clean sand and water, and is backed by green hills.

GETTING THERE

For beaches not accessible by metro, consider taking a taxi. City buses and chartered minivans drop you off along the shore, but safety is an issue. Most beaches have parking lots -- look for attendants in green-and-yellow vests. Turismo Clássico can arrange for drivers and guides.