Walls exploding with huge, vibrant murals of insurgent workers, famous inhabitants of La Boca, and futbol greats splashed in blue and gold let you know that the Estadio Boca Juniors is at hand. The stadium that's also known as La Bombonera (meaning candy box, supposedly because the fans' singing reverberates as it would inside a candy tin) is the home of Argentina's most popular futbol club and is also used as a concert venue. Boca Juniors' history is completely tied to the port neighborhood. The nickname, xeneizes, is a mangling of genovés (Genovese), reflecting the origins of most immigrants to the Boca area. The blue and gold that decks the stadium's fiercely banked seating -- and just about everything else in the area -- was inspired by a Swedish ship's flag.

Inside the stadium is El Museo de la Pasión Boquense (The Museum of Boca Passion), a large-scale celebration of the club. Pricey admission and slick displays are testament to the club's affluence under the guidance of dollar-savvy businessman and wannabe-politician Mauricio Macri. The modern, two-floor space chronicles Boca's rise from neighborhood club in 1905 to its current position as one of the world's best teams. Among the innovative exhibits is a giant football containing 360-degree footage of screaming fans and players, creating all the passion of a match for those too faint-hearted to attend the real thing. Trophies, videos, shirts, match histories, and a hall of fame make up the rest of the circuit, together with a huge mural of Maradona, Boca's most beloved player. Also on display is the specially commissioned blue and gold guitar Lenny Kravitz used to close his 2005 concerts in the stadium. Everything you need to Boca up your life -- from team shirts to bed linen, school folders to G-strings -- is available in the gift shop. Cheaper copies are available in shops and stalls outside the stadium.

If you fancy treading the same ground as futbol gods Batistuta and El Diego, then the extensive stadium tour is worth the extra money. Lighthearted guides take you all over the stands as well as to press boxes, locker rooms, underground tunnels, and the emerald grass of the field itself.