Side Trips from Buenos Aires

Side Trips from Buenos Aires

Colonia del Sacramento

The peaceful cobbled streets of Colonia are just over the river Plate from Buenos Aires, but they seem a world away. Founded in 1680, the city was subject to a long series of wars and pacts between Spain and Portugal, which eventually gave up its claim. Its many small museums are dedicated to the story of its tumultuous history. The best sightseeing activity in Colonia, however, is simply walking through its Barrio Histórico (Old Town).

Begin your tour at the reconstructed Portón de Campo or city gate, where remnants of the old bastion walls lead to the river. A block farther is Calle de los Suspiros, the aptly named Street of Sighs, a cobblestone stretch of one-story colonial homes that can rival any street in Latin America for sheer romantic effect. Clusters of bougainvillea flow over the walls, from which hang old lanterns. Art galleries and antiques shops line the street, which opens out to Plaza Mayor, a lovely square filled with Spanish moss, palm, and spiky, flowering palo borracho trees. The many cafés around the square are an ideal place to take it all in.

Three of the city's principal museums are on Plaza Mayor. The one that's worth a visit is Museo Portugués (Corner of, Plaza Mayor and Calle de los Suspiros. 10 pesos. Daily 11-4:30), which documents the city's ties to Portugal. It's most notable for its collection of old map reproductions based on Portuguese naval expeditions. A small selection of period furnishings, clothes, and jewelry from Colonia's days as a Portuguese colony complete the offerings. Exhibits are well-labeled, but in Spanish only. Next door is the Museo Municipal, which has a collection of sundry objects related to the city's history housed in another early Portuguese settlement. Also near the plaza are the San Francisco convent ruins, dating from 1683 but destroyed by Spanish bombardment not long after. Towering above these surviving walls is the faro or lighthouse, built in 1857. You can climb to the top for a view of the old city. A block away up Calle San Antonio is the Plaza de Armas Manoel Lobo, overlooked by the simple white facade of the oldest church in Uruguay, the Iglesia Matriz. The square itself is crisscrossed with wooden catwalks over the ruins of a house dating to the founding of the town. The tables from the square's small eateries spill from the sidewalk right onto the cobblestones.

Where to Stay & Eat

El Drugstore. The outside tables at this quirky corner restaurant sit on the cobblestones of the Plaza de Armas, with a great view of the Iglesia Matriz. While away the wait for the ferry with a beer and a selection of Spanish-style tapas, or take a break from steak with their seasonally changing à la carte menu, which might include sushi or a fish curry. Vasconcellos 179. 052/25241. AE, MC, V

El Mesón de la Plaza. Simple dishes -- many steak-based -- made with top-quality ingredients have made this small restaurant a favorite with porteño visitors to Colonia. The comprehensive wine list showcases Uruguayan vineyards hard to sample anywhere outside of the country. Try to get one of the outside tables which sit right on the peaceful Plaza de Armas. Vasconcellos 153. 052/24807. MC, V

Pulpería de los Faroles. The specialties at this old stone house right off the Plaza Mayor are lomo a los faroles (beef with beans) and a fantastic selection of pastas. Calle del Comercio 101. 052/25399. AE, MC, V. Closed Wed.

La Bodeguita. This hip restaurant with backyard tables overlooking the river serves incredibly delicious, crispy pizza, sliced into bite-size rectangles. Calle del Comercio 167. 052/25329. MC, V

Four Seasons Carmelo. Serenity pervades this harmoniously decorated resort an hour west of Colonia del Sacramento, reachable by car, boat, or a 15-minute flight from Buenos Aires. Everything is done in a fusion of Asian styles -- from tai chi classes at the incense-scented and bamboo-screen health club to bungalows (considered "standard rooms") with private Japanese gardens (and marvelous outdoor showers). In the evening torches illuminate the paths, which meander through sand dunes. The hotel also offers free sunset cruises on the Río de la Plata. If you can't lodge here, try dining at one of the wonderful restaurants. Ruta 21, km 262, Carmelo. 598/542-9000. www.fourseasons.com/carmelo. 24 duplexes, 20 bungalows. In-room: safe, VCR. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bar, golf course, tennis courts, pool, gym, spa, bicycles, children's programs (ages 5-12), laundry service, airport shuttle, Internet, minibar. AE, DC, MC, V

Hotel Plaza Mayor. This lovely hotel with an impeccable location in the middle of the Barrio Histórico dates from 1840. The simple rooms, many with high ceilings and beveled-glass doors, overlook a peaceful garden with a trickling fountain. Ask for one of the upstairs rooms, which have views of the river. Calle del Comercio 111. 052/23193. 8 rooms. In-hotel: room service, laundry service, minibar. AE, DC, MC, V

Posada de la Flor. This colonial-style hotel, which opened in early 2003, is on a quiet, dead-end street, and is arranged around a verdant courtyard. Second-floor rooms cost a few dollars more, but come with air-conditioners and cheery quilts. All the rooms are named after flowers: ask for the most spacious, called "Nomeolvides," or "Forget-me-not." A lovely third-floor terrace shaded with bamboo looks out over the river. The posada is a pleasant five-minute walk to Plaza Mayor. If you arrive via the Buquebus ferry landing, the English-speaking owner, Roberto, will pick you up. Calle Ituzaingó 268. 052/30794. 10 rooms. In-room: no a/c (some), safe. In-hotel: laundry service. www.guiacolonia.com.uy/posadadelaflor. AE, DC, MC, V. Continental breakfast

San Antonio de Areco

At this small town off R8 you'll find the most authentic scenes of traditional life in the pampas. During the early 1700s the town was a regular stop on the route to Peru. Buenos Aires was still a part of the viceroyalty of Peru, and San Antonio de Areco was the last Spanish-populated settlement on the border of the native inhabitants' territory. The town has come to represent gaucho life, most notably at the gaucho museum, and many of its inhabitants still maintain the gaucho lifestyle. Across the street from the museum entrance is a typical parrilla (restaurant specializing in grilled meats), run by a local family, where traditional gaucho songs are sung.

In summer the Río Areco (Areco River), which runs through town, is teeming with swimmers -- especially near the center of town, at the Puente Viejo (Old Bridge), which is overlooked over by the open-air tables of various riverside parillas. The sleepy downtown itself is made up of a couple of cobblestone shopping streets lined with Italianate houses typical of small-town Buenos Aires province. During the week surrounding November 10th, the Día de la Tradición (Day of Tradition), the town transforms into one long gaucho party, including shows, community barbecues, riding competitions, and a huge crafts fair. To really complete the gaucho experience, consider spending a day or two at one of the many estancias (ranches) around the town.

The Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes conjures up the gaucho life of the past by letting you explore traditional estancia grounds just outside of town, including a 150-year-old pulpería (an old country store from gaucho times) tavern with wax figures, a replica of an 18th-century hacienda, an old chapel, and lots of gaucho paraphernalia. The museum also documents the life and work of Ricardo Güiraldes (1886-1927), whose gaucho novels captured the popular imagination of the Argentine people. Güiraldes is buried in town. Camino Ricardo Güiraldes. 2326/456-201. 5 pesos. Wed.-Mon. 11-5

Centro Cultural y Taller Draghi. San Antonio is famed for its silversmiths, and Juan José Draghi is the best in town. This small museum adjoining his workshop showcases the emergence and evolution of the Argentine silverwork style known as platería criolla. The pieces are mostly gaucho-related: spurs, belt buckles, knives, stirrups, and the ubiquitous mates, some dating to the 18th century. Also on display is the incredibly ornate work of Juan JoséDraghi himself, which you can take home from the shop. Lavalle 387. 2326/454-219. 2 pesos. Daily 9-1 and 3:30-9:30

Where to Stay & Eat

Almacen de Ramos Generales. This old general store is airy and charming, with remnants stowed away in every corner. The food here is simply outstanding, and the small-town setting makes this all the more remarkable. The picada begins with salami, pork, cheese, eggplant en escabeche (pickled), and wondrous french fries with basil. The bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), meanwhile, is one of the best anywhere, perfectly juicy, tender, and flavorful. The atmosphere, too, is just right: it's country-store-meets-elegant-restaurant. Pleasant hues of light pour in from the plate-glass windows while you enjoy the impeccable service and memorable food. Zapiola 143, between Lavalle and Sdo. Sombra. 2326/456-376. www.ramosgeneralesareco.com.ar. No credit cards

El Hostal de Areco. Pink might not be the most gaucho of colors, but the colonial building housing this small hotel is painted unrepentantly deep rose. Things are more traditional inside, where the shady rooms have solid hardwood furniture and plain white walls, and a huge log fireplace roars in the reception area during winter. During the Día de la Tradición celebrations this is one of the most sought-after hotels in town, as the friendly but reserved staff and simple furnishings are much in keeping with the gaucho style. Zapiola 25, 2760. 2326/456-118. www.hostaldeareco.com.ar. 7 rooms. In-room: no phone. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast

Nightlife

One of the coolest watering holes in the entire region, Las Ganas (Vietyes and Pellegrini. No phone) has the requisite dim lighting, live music, boisterous local crowd, and an unbelievable collection of bottles lining the walls. La Ochava de Cocota (Alsina and Alem. 2326/452-176) is a dim haunt, with old wooden tables and chairs and creatively modern lamps that swing from the ceiling. In addition to being a laid-back place to down a couple of drinks, it makes great empanadas.

Shopping

San Antonio de Areco is an excellent place to pick up handicrafts and gifts, especially traditional silverware and leather goods. Workshops that double as shops fill the old houses lining the streets leading off the main square.

The handwoven belts and ponchos Cristina Giordano (Sarmiento 112. 2326/452-829) created in soft, naturally-dyed fibers are fit to hang on the wall as art, and have justifiably made her San Antonio's best-known exponent of the traditional craft of weaving.

It's not surprising that the smell of leather hits you even before you go into El Ombú (Alsina and San Martín. 2326/455-443), as everything in this beautiful corner shop is made of the stuff.

Gustavo Stagnaro (Arellano and Matheu. 2326/454-801. www.stagnaro.com.ar) is a big name in San Antonio silversmithing. His majestic corner store sells gaucho knives, no-nonsense silver jewelry, and mate paraphernalia.

All the gaucho accessories you can think of -- including knives, belt buckles, and kerchief rings -- are exquisitely made in silver at Platería del Campo (Sdo. Sombra 526. 2326/455-020).