Parque Tres de Febrero has nearly 200 acres of lawns, copses, lakes, and trails, but is really a crazy-quilt of smaller parks known locally as Los Bosques de Palermo. Rich grass and shady trees make this an urban oasis, although the busy roads and horn-honking drivers that crisscross the park never quite let you forget what city you're in. South of Avenida Figueroa Alcorta you can take part in organized tai chi and exercise classes or impromptu soccer matches; you can also jog, bike, in-line skate, or take a boat out on the small lake.

If you're looking for a sedate activity, try the Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori (Eduardo Sívori Art Museum, Av. Infanta Isabel 555. 11/4774-9452. www.museosivori.org. 3 pesos, Wed. free. Tues.-Fri. noon-6, weekends 10-6), exhibiting 19th- and 20th-century Argentine art. The 4,000-works-strong collection includes sculptures, engravings, and paintings by local masters like Lino Eneo Spilimbergo and the museum's namesake Sívori, as well as handmade textiles and weavings from all over the country.

Close to the Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori is the Paseo del Rosedal (Rose Garden, Avs. Infanta Isabel and Iraola), where approximately 15,000 rosebushes, representing more than 1,000 different species, bloom seasonally. A stroll along the clay paths takes you through the Jardín de los Poetas (Poets' Garden), dotted with statues of literary figures, and to the enchanting Patio Andaluz (Andalusian Patio) whose majolica tiles and Spanish mosaics sit under a vine-covered pergola.

The sci-fi exterior of the landmark Planetario Galileo Galilei (Galileo Galilei Planetarium, Avs. Sarmiento and Belisario Roldán. 11/4771-6629. Free. Weekdays 9-5, weekends 3-8) holds more appeal than its flimsy content. This great orb positioned on a massive concrete tripod looks like something out of Close Encounters of the Third Kind, and it seems as though small green men in foil suits could descend from its central staircase at any moment. A highlight is the authentic asteroid at the entrance; the pond with swans, geese, and ducks is a favorite with children.

Arched wooden bridges and walkways traverse still waters in the Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden, Avs. Casares and Adolfo Berro. 11/4804-4922. www.jardinjapones.com.ar. 3 pesos. Daily 10-6). A variety of shrubs and flowers frame the ponds, which brim with friendly koi carp that let you pet them should you feel inclined. The traditional teahouse, where you can enjoy adzuki-bean sweets and tea, overlooks a zen garden.

On sunny weekends, Los Bosques de Palermo get crowded and garbage-strewn, as this is where families come for strolls or picnics. Street vendors sell refreshments and choripan (chorizo sausage in a bread roll) within the park, and there are also many posh cafés lining the Paseo de la Infanta (running from Libertador toward Sarmiento in the park).