Yellowstone can be the coldest place in the continental United States in winter, with temperatures of -30 degrees not uncommon. Still, winter-sports enthusiasts flock here when the park opens for its winter season the last week of December. Until early March, the park's roads teem with over-snow vehicles like snowmobiles and snow coaches. Its trails bristle with cross-country skiers and snowshoers.
Snowmobiling is an exhilarating way to experience Yellowstone. It's also controversial: there's heated debate about the pollution and disruption to animal habitats. The number of riders per day is limited, and you must have a reservation, a guide, and a four-stroke engine (which is less polluting than the more common two-stroke variety). About a dozen companies have been authorized to lead snowmobile excursions into the park from the North, West, South, and East entrances. Prices vary, as do itineraries and inclusions -- be sure to ask about insurance, guides, taxes, park entrance fees, clothing, helmets, and meals. Regulations are subject to change.
Lone Star Geyser Trail is an easy 2.3-mi ski to the Lone Star Geyser, starting south of Keppler Cascades. You can ski back to the Old Faithful area. Shuttle at Old Faithful Snow Lodge; trailhead 3 1/2 mi west of Old Faithful Village, Old Faithful.
Five ski trails begin at the Madison River Bridge trailhead. The shortest is 4 mi and the longest is 14 mi. West Entrance Rd., 6 mi west of Madison, Madison.
Free Heel and Wheel (40 Yellowstone Ave., West Yellowstone, MT. 406/646-7744. www.freeheelandwheel.com), outside the West Yellowstone entrance gate, is a source for cross-country ski gear and advice. Expect to pay $20 to $30 per day for ski rentals.
Jackson-based National Park Adventures (650 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY. 307/733-1572 or 800/255-1572. www.anpatours.com) specializes in one-, two-, and multiday guided snowmobile trips into Yellowstone, centering on Canyon and Old Faithful. Lodging is sometimes within the park, sometimes just outside. No riders under six years old are permitted. Day trips, including meals, cost $235 per driver, $110 per passenger to Old Faithful; $250 per driver, $110 per passenger to Canyon. It's approximately $425 per person for multiday trips, including meals and lodging. Park admission fees are not included.
The Yellowstone Association Institute (Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY, 82190. 307/344-2293. www.yellowstoneassociation.org) offers everything from daylong cross-country skiing excursions to multiday "Lodging and Learning" trips geared around hiking, skiing, and snowshoeing treks. Ski instruction is available. Expect to pay $120 to $500 for excursions; $545 to $1,000 or more for Lodging and Learning trips.
Yellowstone Tour & Travel (211 Yellowstone Ave., West Yellowstone, MT. 406/646-9310 or 800/221-1151. www.yellowstone-travel.com) rents snowmobiles and leads trips into the park from West Yellowstone. Longer packages may include lodging in West Yellowstone. Rentals cost $164 to $239 per day with guide. At Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Old Faithful Snow Lodge, Xanterra Parks & Resorts (307/344-7901. www.travelyellowstone.com) rents skis and snowshoes. Ski rentals (including skis, poles, gloves, and gaiters) are $11 per half day, $16 per full day. Snowshoes rentals are $9 per half day, $12 per full day. Shuttle service is $13.50 from Snow Lodge, $14.50 from Mammoth. Group and private lessons are available. Skier shuttles run from Mammoth Hotel to Indian Creek and from Old Faithful Snow Lodge to Fairy Falls.