A hand-carved cedar angel statue watches over diners at this lively spot, where chef-owner Nathan Lockwood lends a Northwest focus to Italian cuisine. The weekly seasonal menu is presented as prix-fixe, but technically dishes are available a la carte as well. It's hard to go wrong with any of the starters or pastas: you might begin with a crudo misto of geoduck (a variety of clam) and scallops with dollops of urchin roe, then move on to pappardelle with braised tripe and
oxtail ragu. Mains may include black cod with fragrant shavings of foraged matsutake mushrooms. Service is hyper-solicitous but the atmosphere is more casual and loud than you might expect given the price tag. When making your reservation, let them know if you prefer a table or a seat at the bar overlooking the open kitchen.