Chef-owner Renee Erickson was inspired by the casual oyster bars of Paris to open this bustling shoebox of a restaurant on the south end of Ballard Avenue (in the rear of a historic brick building, behind Staple+Fancy). Seats fill fast at the zinc bar and the scattered tall tables where seafood fans slurp on fresh-shucked kusshis and shigokus and other local oysters, but the menu also offers refined small plates like grilled sardines with shallots and walnuts or roasted
greengage plums in cream. Arrive soon after the 4 pm opening or you may be in for an exceptionally long wait. Check out Erickon's tiny Barnacle bar next door if you decide to stick it out.