Staple & Fancy

Staple & Fancy Review

The "Staple" side of this Ethan Stowell restaurant at the south end of Ballard Avenue might mean ethereal gnocchi served with corn and chanterelles, or a whole grilled branzino. But visitors to the glam remodeled historic brick building are best served by going "Fancy," meaning the $45 chef's choice dinner where diners are asked about allergies and food preferences, then presented with several courses (technically four, but the appetizer usually consists of a few different plates) of whatever the cooks (often including Stowell himself) are playing with on the line that night—cured meats, salads made with exotic greens, handmade pastas, seasonal desserts. You won't know what's coming next, but it's usually remarkably good.