Fodor's Expert Review Staple & Fancy

The "Staple" side of this Ethan Stowell restaurant might mean gnocchi with corn and chanterelles or a whole grilled branzino. But visitors to the glam, remodeled, historic brick building are best served by going "fancy," meaning the chef's menu dinner where diners are presented with several courses (technically four, but the appetizer usually consists of a few different plates) of whatever the cooks are playing with on the line that night—cured meats, salads of exotic greens, handmade pastas, seasonal desserts. You won't know what's coming next, but it's usually remarkably good.