Artful lighting, an exposed kitchen, a well-edited Italian and Northwest wine list, and a lively small bar are the backdrop for some of the best, and most elegant, seafood dishes in the city at this sophisticated Ethan Stowell restaurant in the ground floor of a residential high-rise at the eastern end of the Pike–Pine Corridor. Appetizer plates are small and easily shared, while mains from the changing menu might include mackerel with cauliflower and radicchio; skate
wing with asparagus and saffron leeks; clams with pine nuts and hot pepper; and octopus with corona beans and fennel. The "oyster power hour," from 5 to 6 pm, Sunday through Thursday, is popular for $1 oysters and drink specials. Dinner reservations are highly recommended.