In a reconstructed traditional teak home on an otherwise uninspiring strip in Wallingford, the bar at May's, on the lower floor, is sexy and dim, with comfortable booths and candlelit corners. To focus on the food, head up the curving staircase to the elegant dining room. The pad Thai, often a flavorless mess at other places, is complex and comes with some of its ingredients laid out in a banana leaf: you mix them in as you see fit. The grapao kaidow (meat sautéed
in a garlic basil sauce accompanied by a fried egg, over rice) is excellent, and the tart, spicy tom ka soups, whether made with shrimp or chicken, are the best in the city. Don't miss the specialty cocktails made with fresh juices.