Blink and you'll drive right by Cascina Spinasse. Venture in and you'll be greeted with a gracious hospitality that belies the sometimes snobby image of Capitol Hill eateries. Fans of chef Justin Neidermeyer will be mesmerized watching him working fastidiously in the restaurant's open kitchen. The space is small and the communal dining dynamic may be off-putting for some; less socially inclined guests may find solace in the few bar seats. Order antipasti, primi, secondi, altro, dolci and formaggio items a la carte, or opt for one of three prix fixe menus. Food is intended to be shared family-style. Highlights include anchovies in a Piemontese sauce with egg yolk; random cuts of pasta with start-of-the-season chanterelle mushrooms; and a Moscato-roasted nectarine with local honey and hazelnuts. All are the perfect balance of salty, savory, and sweet flavors. An Italian wine list is well-chosen and fairly priced.
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